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Rome

The Colosseum

How Did We Get To Rome?

Our stop before Rome was Pisa.  The hotel in Pisa was walking distance from the train station, so we decided that would be the easiest way to travel.  We purchased our tickets in Australia online before we left but could easily have been bought that morning at the station.  We preferred to pre-purchase to ensure we could get on board. The first train left very early, and was not very busy, so we relaxed and enjoyed the views of Italy as they passed by.

The train makes a few stops before reaching Rome, and it became crowded, with many of the later passengers standing for the journey. When we arrived in Rome, we caught a taxi to our hotel because it was too far to walk.  The taxi rank is right outside the main entrance making it easy to find.

Where did we stay?

Nearly all the attractions in Rome are close together (even the Vatican City was only a 40-minute walk), so we stayed centrally and walked everywhere.  The hotel we chose was Hotel Mancino 12.  The concierge stored our bags and as it was early, offered a complimentary breakfast from the buffet.  Very nice! 

When we returned later in the day, our room was ready, and we were very happy with it.  At night it was quiet, so we slept well.  The only concern with the room was water pressure in the shower, which is not really that important, just meant showers took a little longer.

Breakfast at the buffet was plentiful and we appreciated the all-day coffee available in the foyer.  We made use of this on numerous occasions.

Getting Around

Apart from two-day trips out of Rome we walked everywhere because everything was so close to our hotel.  These walks were planned so that we would see things on the way to and from the furthest attraction.  In Rome it seemed like there was an ancient ruin around every corner, if not a church or museum you hadn’t seen.

Finding a place to eat was not a problem.  If anything, there was too much choice.  We took the advice of previous travellers, and found restaurants off the main streets, as they were not so crowded, had better prices and the food was excellent.

Crossing roads can be a little daunting when you first arrive.  There are numerous pedestrian crossings, but the cars never seem to stop for them.  If you just stand at the side of the road, the cars will keep going.  Simply make sure there is room for the car to stop, walk out and it will stop.

Rome Walk
Rome Walk

What did we do?

We tried to see as much as possible in the time we had.  Many sites are on public display and easy to find, although they can become very crowded with tourists as we discovered.  For the Roman Forum and Colosseum, we organised a guided tour, so that an expert could explain the importance of the sites. This proved to be a great choice as the guides proved to be very knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

Forum / Palatine Hill

Colosseum

Trevi Fountain

Pantheon

Catacombs of Rome

Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars

Fontana del Tritone in Piazza Barberini

Piazza Navona

Sant’Agnese in Agone

Spanish Steps

Marcus Aurelius Column

Altar of the Fatherland

Capitoline Museums

Walking in Rome

What Did We Think?

Forum / Palatine Hill

We met our guide for the Forum at the Colosseum Metro station.  She was a young archaeologist and her enthusiasm for the topic was amazing.  We spent several hours walking around the area learning about its ruins and what they were all used for.  It was also interesting to discover that many old Roman buildings were re-purposed later for other uses.  Many old temples exist today only because they were turned into churches.

The area covered by the Forum is huge and we walked briskly to cover as much as we could.  From the entrance (we were first in for the morning!), we saw the Forum, Septimius Severus Arch and the Temple of Vesta.  Near this is Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana originally a Roman temple dedicated to Valerius Romulus.

The tour took us up to Palatino Hill, with its great views over Rome and then on to the Palatine Stadium.  Between each of these major points of interest were numerous other quick stops to see and have explained.  With an expert guide, the ruins were brought back to life and we could easily have spent the whole day there.

Unfortunately, it had to come to an end, which it did near the Arch of Constantine next to the Colosseum.

Remember to visit after dark as well. because the views from outside are great and many of the monuments are lit, giving a beautiful look to the ruins.

The Forum From Palatine Hill
The Forum From Palatine Hill
Trajan's Column
Trajan’s Column
Arch of Titus
Arch of Titus
Arch of Constantine
Arch of Constantine
The Forum From the Capitoline Museum
The Forum From the Capitoline Museum

Colosseum

The guided tour of the Colosseum was a continuation of the tour of the Forum.  The group was larger at around 20 people, but the guide was equally well-informed.  The Colosseum was very busy when our tour started, and the public access areas were packed.  This tour however, took us to three places that you must go with a guide to visit.

Our fist stop was the arena floor which allows you to walk out to where the gladiators fought and look up into the stands.  You also get a great view down to the lower level of the Colosseum where the animals and gladiators were kept.

The second stop was the lower levels where the workings of the Colosseum were explained, such as how people and animals accessed the arena.  There is also a replica of the lift used to move from the lower levels to the arena floor.

The final guided section was the upper levels.  This is the highest you can you and you are rewarded with a fantastic view of the interior of the Colosseum.

We were then free to walk around the rest of the monument at our leisure, but the highlight was certainly the guided tour.

To get a different perspective, we visited at night.  The whole outside structure is lit up and looks magnificent.  On our way there, we stopped for a look at the Forum at night as well.

The Colosseum Interior From the Upper Levels
The Colosseum Interior From the Upper Levels
The Colosseum From the Arena Floor
The Colosseum From the Arena Floor
Beneath the Colosseum
Beneath the Colosseum

Trevi Fountain

As all the reviews say, it’s crowded.  We had to wait ages to get to the front.  You can get photos from the sides a little easier, but views are not as good.  To avoid this, we came back a second time at 5:30AM.  They were still a lot of people there but nowhere near as many.

Remember you are not allowed to sit on the edge of the fountain.  There are guards around that will tell you off and blow a whistle to make you move.  Despite this, it is amazing how many people sat down.

This is one of the places infested with people trying to sell you things you don’t need.  They degrade the whole look and atmosphere of Rome.  We avoided them where possible, but they can get a bit pushy and in your face.  This was especially the case with flower sellers.  They present you with a flower, as if it’s a gift.  When you accept it, they demand payment.

Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain

Pantheon

Now a church dedicated to St. Mary and the Martyrs, the Pantheon was originally a Roman temple.  It’s excellent state of preservation is due to its re-purposing as a church and its continual usage since Roman times.

It looks spectacular from outside with its columns and inside is even better.  The domed ceiling is magnificent.  The first king of a united Italy Victor Emmanuel II is buried there as is his successor Umberto I.

The Pantheon
The Pantheon
The Pantheon Dome Interior
The Pantheon Dome Interior

Catacombs of Rome

One of only two bus trips we organised, because of the distance to travel, we found this experience extremely underwhelming.  The tour took us to the Domitilla catacombs, which were originally a Roman stone quarry.  Early Christians used them and there are some frescoes and early Christian symbols.  The alcoves where bodies were buried can be seen but no bodies are left.  After visiting the Paris catacombs, this was very disappointing because most of the time was spent walking down empty tunnels.  The guide made it worse by dumbing everything down and talking to us as if we hadn’t left high school. 

Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars

This was part of the catacombs tour, but really, we could (and should) have done it ourselves.  It is easily reachable as it is in the centre of Rome. 

The Crypt consists of a series of rooms off a corridor.  You walk down the corridor and stare at the creepy bone decorated rooms and move on.  No photos are allowed. The monks are not allowed to repair the “displays”, so it is in a general state of disrepair.

Worth the 15 minutes to say you have been there, but nothing more.

Fontana del Tritone in Piazza Barberini

One of many fountains located throughout Rome.  This one is dedicated to Triton.  A very nice fountain and worth looking at if you are passing through the Piazza Barberini, where it is located.

Piazza Navona

The Piazza Navona contains three fountains.  The most famous is the Fountain of the Four Rivers which is, topped by the Obelisk of Domitian.  The other two smaller fountains are the Fountain of Neptune and the Fontana del Moro.  All three are great to relax around.

Fountain of the Four Rivers
Fountain of the Four Rivers
Fountain of the Four Rivers
Statues of the Four Rivers Fountain
Fountain of Neptune
Fountain of Neptune

Sant’Agnese in Agone

Just off the Piazza Barberini is the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone.  We spent some time in here admiring the artwork, sculptures and architecture of the building. There is also a shrine for Saint Agnes, containing her skull. Saint Agnes was an early Christian Saint Agnes who was martyred in the ancient Stadium of Domitian.

Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps are another favorite spot for tourists to visit.  When we were there it was very crowded and full of people trying to sell us flowers, selfie sticks and other must have items.  The steps themselves are quite beautiful but trying to get a picture is difficult.  We climbed to the top and looked down, which gave a great view and a different perspective of the steps.

At the top is the church of the Santissima Trinità dei Monti which contains some amazing artwork and it worth a visit.  Women are requested to cover their heads and shoulders before entering the church.

The Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps
Santissima Trinità dei Monti
Santissima Trinità dei Monti

The Column of Marcus Aurelius

Marcus Aurelius Column
Marcus Aurelius Column

The Column of Marcus Aurelius is in front of the Palazzo Chigi, the official residence of the Italian Prime Minister.  At nearly 30 metres high, it’s hard to miss.  This column is modelled on the more famous Trajan’s Column.  A statue of St Paul has replaced the statue of Marcus Aurelius.

Altar of the Fatherland

The Altar of the Fatherland (Altare della Patria) is a huge monument in the centre of Rome dedicated to Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy.  This huge building is located near Capitoline Hill and is visible from much of the city.

There is a statue of Victor Emmanuel on a horse at the front as well as two statues of the goddess Victory riding in horse-drawn chariots.

Also housed here are the remains of the unknown soldier.  From the upper section of the building there are great views over the city.  There is a lift to the roof for what must be a spectacular view, but it was closed for repairs while we were there.

A great place to visit, learn about the Italian Unification and pay respects to the fallen soldiers.

Altar of the Fatherland
Altar of the Fatherland
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Capitoline Museums

The Capitoline Museums are a must see when visiting Rome.  They hold the best collection of Roman artefacts in the world that anyone remotely interested in history would want to see. The collection is huge, so unless you plan to spend several days there, it is a good idea to pick specific items you want to see.

If you do decide to look at everything, you might soon get tired of all the sculpture heads that fill numerous rooms, and the amazing number of statues.  We went through these rooms, but to make sure we remained interested, the visits were brief.  We sought out the She Wolf with Romulus and Remus, Venus, The Dying Gaul and Cupid and Psyche.

Some other items that should not be missed are the Colossus of Constantine and the bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.

No bags are allowed inside, but self-serve lockers are provided so you can safely store your bags.

The She Wolf with Romulus and Remus
The She Wolf with Romulus and Remus
Capitoline Museum
Capitoline Museum
Venus
Venus
Bacchus
Bacchus
Colossus of Constantine
Colossus of Constantine

Walking in Rome

One of the great things about walking in Rome was the discovery of unexpected places and small side streets.  Almost every turn brought us to something new and unexpected.  We found the Marcus Aurelius Column this way, because it just happened to be on the route we had chosen.

Crossing roads can be a little daunting when you first arrive.  There are numerous pedestrian crossings, but the cars never seem to stop for them.  If you just stand at the side of the road, the cars will keep going, however simply make sure there is room for the car to stop, walk out and it will stop.

What Did We Think?

We loved Rome, from the hotel to the history and the monuments.  The only issue we had were the swarms of people trying to sell things to tourists.  This made us feel uneasy a few times, but generally, the number of other people made us feel safe.  We went out each night for a meal (the food in Rome is excellent) and never felt unsafe.  We did however have all our things in backpacks that were lockable and pick-pocket proof.

Venice

The Bridge of Sighs

How Did We Get To Venice?

We flew to Venice from Zürich, as part of a 30-day holiday.  The night before departure we stayed at the Radisson Blu Hotel, Zürich Airport.  This meant that the next morning was not too hectic as no travel was needed.  Check in at the Swissair desk was easy, but the line was very long.  It took us nearly an hour to get to the head of the line.  Breakfast during the flight consisted of a cup of coffee and a chocolate bar (Swiss chocolate of course).

Pisa Time
Pisa Time

After landing at Venice Marco Polo Airport, one of us was not feeling too well (might have been the chocolate for breakfast).  We located a pharmacy and bought something to feel better.  The pharmacist also gave us directions to the water bus terminal, and suggested not following the signs, which send you outside.  Instead she said to stay inside in the air conditioning, until you reach the far end of the concourse and then taking the lifts down to ground level.

Tickets for the water bus can be purchased at the kiosks located near the water.  If you are not sure what you need, or where to get off, ask the friendly staff.

The trip took us about 40 minutes to the San Marco ferry wharf.  The trip was great for a first-time visitor.  You get to see a lot of other boat traffic as well as Venice from the water as you approach.

View From the Water Bus as You Approach Venice
View From the Water Bus as You Approach Venice
View From the Water Bus as You Approach Venice
View From the Water Bus as You Approach Venice

Where did we stay?

There is a huge choice of hotels, of all qualities.  Our choice was the Hotel Donà Palace.  It was very nicely located near Piazza San Marco.  The walk from the wharf with backpacks was easy and the desk clerk stored our luggage as we arrived before check-in time.

We found the room comfortable, clean and quiet and were very happy with our choice.

Getting Around

Remember there are no cars in Venice.  Apart from transport from the airport, to the train station and to Murano Island, we walked.  Everywhere is quite close, but there is always the water bus, if you are going to the outer islands or want to cruise down the Grand Canal.

We were told that one of the things you need to do in Venice is get lost.  Well, we did that a few times without intending to and it was fun, as you run across places and sites you did not intend.  Due to the narrow streets, our phones lost GPS a few times, but there are signs that point to the main attractions.  So, if you know the general direction you want to go, it is easy to find your way back.

What did we do?

Walking

Well, this is pretty much what we did to get everywhere.  It did lead us to some great unexpected spots, some good restaurants and nice quiet places away from Piazza San Marco.  Several times when we were not in a hurry, we just randomly walked to see what we could find.

One of the unusual places we found was the Assassin’s Cafe, on Assassin Street!

The Assassin's Cafe in Venice
The Assassin’s Cafe in Venice
Assassin's Street
Assassin’s Street

One of the first Attractions we found was the Rialto Bridge, which spans the Grand Canal.  During the day, it is extremely crowded.  On the morning of our departure, at 6AM, though it was deserted and we were able to get a better look at it.

Rialto Bridge
Rialto Bridge

Gondola Ride

We had always intended taking a gondola ride at some time, and on one of our walks, we found one with no queue, so jumped straight in.  There is a flat fare now, so no haggling over the price, despite what you read on some sites.  When we were there, the price was 80 Euros. 

It was early morning, so the canals were still empty (so the gondolier told us).  Moving around the canals was very quiet, away from the crowds, especially in the little canals.  We had a few waits at intersections, for other gondolas, and the water taxis had to stop for us (gondolas get right of way).

On another walk later in the day, some of the canals were jammed with gondolas, with what looked like a real traffic jam.  This would not have been as pleasant a ride as we had.

The only problem was that at times the water was a little smelly.

Back Street Gondola Ride
Back Street Gondola Ride

Piazza San Marco

This is one of the major attractions in Venice and is bordered by the Doge’s Palace and Basilica.  This combination makes it very busy. In the mornings and evenings when the cruise ship passengers were not there, it was far less crowded and a more pleasant place to be.

The restaurants at the Piazza are expensive and some of the staff tout for business trying to get you into their premises.  Equally good food at a far more reasonable price is available just a few streets back.  If you really want to sit and eat there though, expect a coffee to cost ten to fifteen Euros.

Bell Tower in Piazza San Marco
Bell Tower in Piazza San Marco
Piazza San Marco
Piazza San Marco

Caffe Florian

The is the oldest coffee shop in the world and has been in continuous use since 1720.  You can sit at the tables for a very expensive coffee or stand at the bar and have an espresso for 1.50 Euro.  It is located just off Piazza San Marco.

Caffe Florian
Caffe Florian

Doges’ Palace

The Doge’s Palace is where the rulers of Venice used to reside.  To really appreciate it, we took a guided tour with an expert guide.  The grandeur of the place can only be experienced with an extensive tour.  From the gold on the ceilings, the paintings and the architecture, the building was designed to impress visiting dignitaries.  It still does this today

The Ceiling in the Doge's Palace
The Ceiling in the Doge’s Palace
The Ceiling in the Doge's Palace
The Ceiling in the Doge’s Palace

One of the highlights of the tour is seeing the prison that adjoins the palace.  To access it, you go through the Bridge of Sighs, so you get a chance to look out of it at all the other tourists taking pictures from the outside.

Looking out From the Bridge of Sighs
Looking out From the Bridge of Sighs

Basilica San Marco

As part of the Doge’s Palace tour, we took up the option to see the Basilica after hours.  The same guide showed us around and her passion for the history of Venice made for a great evening.  The atmosphere inside, after everyone else has left is amazing and is highly recommended.

The sheer quantity of gold leaf used to decorate the interior is unbelievable.  It was also interesting to learn that most of the material for the Basilica was taken from places conquered by the Venetians.  As a result, nearly all the pillars are of different designs and stone.  We didn’t realize this until it was pointed out and then it became obvious.

The Ceiling of the Basilica San Marco
The Ceiling of the Basilica San Marco

Walking Tour

So that we could experience the back streets of Venice and see some of the more unusual sights, we booked a half day walking tour.  We had a great time, going to places we did not know of and learning about the city from the perspective of a local.  We crossed the Grand Canal in a traghetto, a type of stand-up gondola, went to the fruit and vegetable markets, saw many, many churches (each campo – square – has its own church) and ended on top of the old Hanseatic Warehouse which has now been transformed into a high-end retail store.  The views of the grand canal and over the city were amazing.

View of the Grand Canal from the Hanseatic Warehouse
View of the Grand Canal from the Hanseatic Warehouse
View of the Grand Canal from the Hanseatic Warehouse
View of the Grand Canal from the Hanseatic Warehouse

Opera House

One of the most famous buildings in Venice is the Opera House.  If you can’t afford the price of an opera ticket, for about 15 Euros, you can get a self guided tour of the interior.

We spent a while walking around.  As a bonus, you get to sit in the seats and pretend you are at the opera.

Venice Opera House
Venice Opera House
Venice Opera House
Venice Opera House

Murano Island

We took a water bus across to Murano to see the famous glass making up close.  We had a front row seat to watch the master glass blower at work.  Amazing how, on a hot day they work so near to a hot furnace.  The skill displayed to make amazing pieces of art was fantastic.

Murano Island
Murano Island
Glass Blowing on Murano - Making the Scream
Glass Blowing on Murano – Making the Scream

Afterwards, we walked around a display room, and selected several pieces as souvenirs.  Don’t be afraid to haggle.  We were offered a discount for cash.  When I showed we were a few Euros short of the final agreed price, it was dropped further.

The water bus stops at San Michele, which is the cemetery for Venice.  We didn’t get off to look, but several others did.  If you want to go on to Burano to see the lace making, the water bus goes there as well.

The Victor Emmanuel II Monument

This statue of the first king of Italy is located on the water front where the large cruise hips come in.  Worth looking at for its historical importance.

The Victor Emmanuel II Monument
The Victor Emmanuel II Monument

Water Front at San Marco Wharf

If you arrive by cruise ship, there is where you will most likely disembark.  The area is full of souvenir stalls and people selling all sorts of things.  We walked through this to see some of the buildings further down.

San Marco Wharf
San Marco Wharf

If you go to the Ponte della Paglia there is a great view of the Bridge of Sighs.  A little further down is the Victor Emmanuel II Monument.

The Bridge of Sighs
The Bridge of Sighs

Access to Piazza San Marco is easy, directly through the Columns of San Marco and San Teodoro.  Just look for St Mark’s Campanile; the bell tower of St Mark’s Basilica.

Daniele Manin Statue

Our tour guide on the morning walking tour took us to this statue of the Italian patriot and champion of Italian unification.

Daniele Manin Statue
Daniele Manin Statue

Food Markets

This was another area our guide took us to.  There is an amazing variety of fresh fruit and vegetables available here.  A great place to buy something healthy, or just take in the sights and smells.

Food Markets
Food Markets
Food Markets
Food Markets

Spiral Tower

This tower wasn’t open to the public when we were in Venice, but there were plans to do so. 

Spiral Tower
Spiral Tower

What Did We Think?

We loved Venice.  It was one of the highlights of our 30-day trip.  The hotel was excellent and well located.  The tour guides we used were fantastic, enthusiastic and knowledgeable.  Not to mention the city itself, which is really something special and unique. And of course, the food was magnificent.

From Venice, we took a train to Pisa

Pisa

All Three Monuments, Leaning Tower, Baptistery and Cathedral

Getting There

We caught a train from Venice to Pisa, with a change in Florence. Departing at 7:30, we arrived in Pisa at 11:00AM.  A quick walk to our Hotel ( Hotel Bologna) to drop off our bags and we walked to the Main Street to get some lunch. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from. We decided on a simple snack and a drink before walking to the piazza where all of the monuments are located.

Pisa Time
Pisa Time

Pisa Walk
Pisa Walk

The walk was easy, but we felt uncomfortable due to the large number of males in their twenties, either trying to sell sunglasses, water, selfie sticks and other low quality junk, or hassling tourists.

What We Saw in Pisa

After running the gauntlet of hawkers, we arrived to find a huge crush of tourists. We had expected this, but were still amazed at the number of people there.  We walked around the Leaning Tower taking pictures and then went to the ticket office.  You must go here to get tickets for all of the monuments.

The Leaning Tower of Pisa
The Leaning Tower of Pisa

The wait for the Tower was over three hours, so we decided not to climb to the top. First stop after getting our tickets, was the Baptistery of St. John  (Battistero).  A great looking building, particularly on the outside.  The interior is somewhat Spartan.  Take the stairs to the upper level.  This allows you to look down onto the baptismal font.  There is also a great view out one of the windows to the Cathedral.  The view is a little different to that from the ground.

Baptistery of St John in Pisa
Baptistery of St John in Pisa

Interior of Baptistery of St John in Pisa
Interior of Baptistery of St John in Pisa

Font in the Baptistery of St John in Pisa
Font in the Baptistery of St John in Pisa

The Pisa Cathedral is on of the three attractions in the Plaza of Miracles.  Spectacular on the outside, it is grander on the inside.  The painting are fantastic, along with the alter, which is spectacular.  We spent a lot of time wandering around inside admiring the artworks.

Pisa Cathedral
Pisa Cathedral

Pisa Cathedral Interior
Pisa Cathedral Interior

The Plaza, still has the old city walls running down one side.  These are worth a look, as many old Italian cities no longer have them.

Pisa City Walls
Pisa City Walls

On our way back to the hotel, we walked along the River Arno, enabling us to see a little more of Pisa.

Pisa From the River Arno
Pisa From the River Arno

Eating Out

We found plenty of options for food.  Near our hotel was a selection of Italian restaurants.  We chose one at random and had a great meal with some local beers, followed by gelato, for dessert.

What Did We Think?

The Hotel Bologna was clean, quiet and comfortable.  There was air-conditioning which worked perfectly and we had a great night’s sleep.  Centrally located, we were very happy with it.

As expected, Pisa was very crowded with tourists.  What we didn’t expect was the hordes of hawkers and others, who made us feel extremely uncomfortable.  On our walk back to the train station the next morning, we were followed by a group of men, and we went into an open café until they went away.

Had we known how little time we would spend, a better option would have been to leave our luggage at the train station in a locker.  We could have then travelled on to Rome the same day.

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