Covering Australia’s maritime history from pre-colonial times to the present, the Australian National Maritime Museum in Sydney has an excellent collection of ships and artefacts on display. The most obvious displays are the ships and boats of the heritage fleet docked on Darling Harbour, but those inside also deserve a lot of attention.
Indigenous Watercraft
As the oldest users of the Australian coast and waterways, a large section is devoted to indigenous watercraft and heritage. Displays of canoes from around Australia and the Torres Strait are on display.
Aboriginal Bark CanoeIlma from the Bardi Jawi people
Kay Cottee and Blackmores First Lady
In 1989, Kay Cottee became the first woman to circumnavigate the world alone, without stopping, without assistance, by way of both hemispheres and the five southernmost capes. It took her 189 days in Blackmores First Lady, in a time before Social Media and with poor communications.
Visitors are able to enter the boat and experience how small it is. Getting on board really makes you realise what an incredible achievement it was.
Blackmores First Lady in which Kay Cottee became the first woman to perform a single-handed, non-stop and unassisted circumnavigation of the worldInside Kay Cottee’s Blackmores First Lady
Model Ships
One section of the Museum has beautifully made ship models relevant to Australia. As the museum is based in Sydney most of the Royal Australian Navy’s shops named HMAS Sydney are displayed. The largest and most impressive is the aircraft carrier, which has amazing detail.
Other models range from sailing ships to bulk iron ore carriers. All were important either for exploration or trade.
Model of The Royal Australian Aircraft Carrier HMAS Sydney (III)A model of BHP Pacific IronSailing Ship Model
Other Exhibits
Interesting displays located throughout the museum include the ships bell from USS Canberra (AG-2) which was named after HMAS Canberra, a heavy cruiser sunk during the Second World War. A 40mm cannon from a Royal Australian Navy ship lets you get a close up look at this important anti-aircraft weapon.
The Bell of USS Canberra CAG-2Spirit of Australia – The World’s Fastest Boat 1978Bofors 40mm cannonDeep Sea Diver Statue
HMAS Vampire
HMAS Vampire (II) D11 was a Daring class destroyer operated by the Royal Australian Navy. Launched in 1959 and decommissioned in 1986. Entry to Vampire and the other ships is included in the ticket cost of the Maritime Museum (as of March 2024).
HMAS VampireHMAS Vampire 4.5″ GunsSick Bay of HMAS VampireSenior Ratings’ Lounge HMAS Vampire
HMAS Onslow
HMAS Onslow was an Oberon class submarine of the Royal Australian Navy. Commissioned 1969 in and decommissioned in 1999. Walking through the submarine makes you realise how cramped the conditions are. This isn’t somewhere I would want to live months on end.
The historical fleet contains ships that have importance to Australia’s maritime heritage. Possibly the most impressive to still be preserved is the Krait. This ex-Japanese fishing boat was used by Australia Special Forces during the Second World War to sneak into Singapore Harbour where they damaged 37,000 tonnes of Japanese ships.
Opened in September 2023, the Torpedo Factory at Sub Base Platypus is an excellent addition to this heritage site. Managed by the Harbour Trust, the old factory was partially demolished and revitalised as an open public space.
Getting There
We used public transport, getting the train to Milsons Point Station and then walking for 10 minutes. If you prefer to drive, there is parking available on site.
History of the Site
Opened in 1942 during World War Two the factory produced torpedoes for Allied forces. Many of the employees were women, due to many men being in the armed forces. Commemorated at the site with murals, it’s a great reminder of their contribution during the war. Post war, the torpedo workshops continued to service the British Navy submarine fleet based at HMAS Penguin and the Royal Australian Navy’s destroyer fleet.
The entire base was closed in 1999 when the Royal Australian Navy moved its Collins-class submarines to Western Australia.
The Site Now
The old factory features several interesting display that explain the site’s history. These range from a Torpedo Mark VIII, information boards and murals with photos and signs from the factory. There is also a car park with electric charging stations.
Our previous blog, which covers the rest of Sub Base Platypus can be found here.
Entrance to the Torpedo Factory at Sub Base PlatypusTorpedo Mark VIII Mod 4 on displayRear underside view of the Mark VIII TorpedoOld SignsOld Signs
To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.
The walk from Manly to North Head takes you past some beautiful beaches with views over the coast, through coastal scrub and passes old fortifications. Finally ending at the entrance to Sydney Harbour, it has spectacular views of the city.
Getting There
The easiest way to get to Manly is to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. If you’re new to Sydney, this is an attraction in itself, because the Sydney Harbour ferries form an important part of the local public transport. During the ferry ride, you get some brilliant views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge as well as all the other boat traffic on the water.
Manly Ferry CollaroyOpera House From the Manly Ferry
Start of the Walk
Catching the Manly Ferry from Circular Quay, we arrived at Manly Wharf at 9:30 am. We planned our walk to take us along the shore to Shelly Beach where we would follow a track to the Barracks Precinct. Not only would this give us views over the coast but take us past some old fortifications and gun emplacements.
From the Manly wharf, we walked down The Corso, which is a pedestrian mall leading to the beach.
Manly Beach
One of the most popular Sydney beaches, Manly Beach is a great place for a swim or relaxing on the sand. We bought a coffee at a kiosk near the south end of the beach before starting the walk.
Manly Beach
Manly to Shelly Beach
Starting at the south end of Manly Beach, the path follows the coastline, which is rocky until you reach Shelly Beach. There are plenty of places with places to look up and down the coast and back to Manly, giving you some amazing views.
Along the way look out for small metal sculptures of local wildlife. These have been placed on the rocks next to the path.
About halfway to Shelly Beach, Fairy Bower Pool is a protected ocean pool where you can swim. The pool is also decorated with a sculpture of two fairies.
Fairy Bower Sea PoolFairy StatuesSculpture of an octopus near Shelly BeachSculpture of an bandicoot near Shelly BeachFairey Penguin Sculpture near Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach is a secluded and serene crescent-shaped beach surrounded by nice shady trees. As well as a grassed area to relax on it has a kiosk where you can buy refreshments before continuing the walk.
From Shelly Beach, the track goes uphill to head along the cliffs to the south.
Shelly Beach
Shelly Headland Lookout
Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the ocean, this Shelly Headland Lookout provides an ideal spot for photographers because of the wonderful views along the coast. During the whale migration season, it’s also an ideal point to watch them swimming past.
Coastal view looking north back to Manly
Shelly Beach to the Barracks Precinct
After the flat walk from Manly the track becomes rougher and steeper. From here the track climbs uphill to reach the cliff tops. Winding through the coastal vegetation, it is not as busy as the first section because it is a more difficult walk. We loved this section, as the walk through the bush was much more peaceful.
At the top of the cliffs, old fortifications dating from the Second World War and earlier can be seen. The track even goes through one of the old walls built to defend the area.
The track south of Shelly BeachOld fortification wall at North Head
Barracks Precinct
The Barracks Precinct at North Head is a historically significant site that served as a military base from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. It played a crucial role in the defence of Sydney Harbor and housed various military units over the years.
The Barracks Precinct has well-preserved sandstone buildings, which showcase the architectural style of the time. It includes several barracks, officers’ quarters, mess halls, and maintenance buildings. These structures provide a glimpse into the daily lives of soldiers stationed at North Head.
Today, the Barracks Precinct has been repurposed as a heritage site and is open to the public for exploration. Visitors can wander through the historic buildings, learn about the site’s military history through information boards which are dotted around the area.
In this area and continuing to North Head, the walking tracks are generally well paved and often consists of boardwalks or paved roads. When we visited, the banksias were in flower adding a touch of colour to the walk.
Main barracks building and parade groundBanksia in flowerBanksia in Flower
Fortifications
Many of the original fortifications were dismantled and the guns sold for scrap when they were no longer needed. Fortunately, some are still in place so that visitors can see them. Several large gun emplacements are open to the public, but when we visited others were being repaired.
A great way to get a feel for the area’s past is to take the underground tunnels tour. We did this several years ago and highly recommend it. You walk through the tunnels and underground sections of the fortifications as well as getting into areas the general public cannot access.
Old FortificationsOld Fortification undergoing restoration9.2 Inch Gun
Memorial Walk
Winding through the coastal vegetation, the Memorial Walk commemorates Australia’s military heritage. Not only are there great sandstone memorials but the path is inlaid with bricks commemorating individuals or military units.
Memorial WalkMemorial for Australian Peacekeeping Operations
Fairfax Lookout
The end of our walk took us to Fairfax Lookout with its stunning views of Sydney and Sydney Harbour. The site was named after Sir James Fairfax, a prominent Australian businessman and philanthropist.
View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout
Other Places to See in North Head
If you have time, Q Station, the old Sydney Quarantine Station is worth a visit. We did a guided tour here some time ago, which took us through the history of the site and most of its buildings. The old quarantine station cemetery is also a great place to see.
Getting Back
After finishing our walk, we decided to catch the bus back to the wharf as it stops right outside. Alternatively, you could walk back via Q Station. We had an excellent tour there a few years ago and highly recommend a visit.
