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Australian National Maritime Museum

HMAS Vampire National Maritime Museum

Australian National Maritime Museum

Covering Australia’s maritime history from pre-colonial times to the present, the Australian National Maritime Museum in Sydney has an excellent collection of ships and artefacts on display. The most obvious displays are the ships and boats of the heritage fleet docked on Darling Harbour, but those inside also deserve a lot of attention.

Indigenous Watercraft

As the oldest users of the Australian coast and waterways, a large section is devoted to indigenous watercraft and heritage. Displays of canoes from around Australia and the Torres Strait are on display.

Kay Cottee and Blackmores First Lady

In 1989, Kay Cottee became the first woman to circumnavigate the world alone, without stopping, without assistance, by way of both hemispheres and the five southernmost capes. It took her 189 days in Blackmores First Lady, in a time before Social Media and with poor communications.

Visitors are able to enter the boat and experience how small it is. Getting on board really makes you realise what an incredible achievement it was.

Model Ships

One section of the Museum has beautifully made ship models relevant to Australia. As the museum is based in Sydney most of the Royal Australian Navy’s shops named HMAS Sydney are displayed. The largest and most impressive is the aircraft carrier, which has amazing detail.

Other models range from sailing ships to bulk iron ore carriers. All were important either for exploration or trade.

Other Exhibits

Interesting displays located throughout the museum include the ships bell from USS Canberra (AG-2) which was named after HMAS Canberra, a heavy cruiser sunk during the Second World War. A 40mm cannon from a Royal Australian Navy ship lets you get a close up look at this important anti-aircraft weapon.

HMAS Vampire

HMAS Vampire (II) D11 was a Daring class destroyer operated by the Royal Australian Navy.  Launched in 1959 and decommissioned in 1986. Entry to Vampire and the other ships is included in the ticket cost of the Maritime Museum (as of March 2024).

HMAS Onslow

HMAS Onslow was an Oberon class submarine of the Royal Australian Navy. Commissioned 1969 in and decommissioned in 1999. Walking through the submarine makes you realise how cramped the conditions are. This isn’t somewhere I would want to live months on end.

Historical Fleet

The historical fleet contains ships that have importance to Australia’s maritime heritage. Possibly the most impressive to still be preserved is the Krait. This ex-Japanese fishing boat was used by Australia Special Forces during the Second World War to sneak into Singapore Harbour where they damaged 37,000 tonnes of Japanese ships.

Zig Zag Railway

Engine 218A built by Baldwin Locomotive Works Philadelphia USA in 1943

Zig Zag Railway Blue Mountains Australia

Located in the Blue Mountains of New South Wales, Australia the historic Zig Zag Railway is a unique railway, with its zigzagging track and vintage steam locomotives. Offering an experience of travel in the late 19th century, it’s a must do if visiting Sydney.

History

The Zig Zag Railway’s story began in 1869, when the need arose to transport goods and passengers across the steep escarpment of the Blue Mountains. The existing railway line at the time was unable to handle the steep incline, and a more innovative solution was needed. The resulting design incorporated a series of switchbacks and tunnels that allowed trains to gradually climb the mountainside. Looking like a capital letter Z, the layout gave the track its name.

The Zig Zag Railway officially opened in 1870 and quickly became a vital transportation link between Sydney and the west of New South Wales. It played a crucial role in the development of the region, transporting coal, timber, and other essential goods.

Becoming a Tourist Attraction

Unfortunately, the Zig Zag Railway’s reign as the primary transportation route was short-lived. In 1910, the nearby Ten Tunnels Deviation opened, offering a more efficient and direct route. As a result, the Zig Zag Railway fell into disuse and was eventually abandoned.

However, in 1975, a group of volunteers formed the Zig Zag Railway Co-op and began the process of restoring the railway to its former glory. Reopening in 1977, the Zig Zag Railway offers visitors a chance to travel on heritage steam locomotives, while enjoying breathtaking views of the Blue Mountains.

Getting There

Depending on where you board the train, you can either drive or arrive by train. From the upper station at Clarence, a large car park caters for visitors. If leaving from Clarence self drive is the best way to get there. Choosing to join at the lower points enables you to catch a train from Sydney. Just make sure the connecting times are right and you can board the train here.

The trip is booked as a return ticket, so you finish at the same station you started at. Booking is best done on line as the trains are often fully booked.

What to See

At Clarence, displays and exhibits detail the history of the railway, providing a great introduction to the visit. Exchange your online ticket for vintage style ticket at the gift shop, which has some interesting items for sale.

When the train arrives there is plenty of time to look at the carriages and locomotive. We were able to go into the cab, talk to the driver and look at the firebox.

As the train travels between stations a commentary explains the history and workings of the railway. It also points out places of interest such as the viaducts and tunnels. The viaducts are amazing with their arches and at one point you can see several at once, built into the escarpment.

The train stops twice each way so that the locomotive can change to the other end of the train to pull it on the next leg. Passengers are allowed out at these stops where you can look at some displays in the old stations. The signal box at one was also open, so we were able to see that as well.

Be aware that there are no allocated seats, so if you get off when you come back, someone may be sitting where you were when you return to the carriage.

Locomotive

On our trip, the locomotive was Steam Locomotive 218A built in 1902 by Beyer, Peacock & Company in Manchester, England.it was withdrawn from service in 1958 and later acquired by the Zig Zag Railway Co-op in 1975. It has since been restored to operational condition and is now used to haul passenger trains on the Zig Zag Railway.

Glen Davis Oil Shale Ruins

Remains of the processing plant Glen Davis Oil Shale Ruins

Glen Davis Oil Shale Ruins

Located in the Capertee Valley the Glen Davis Oil Shale Ruins were once a thriving industrial complex. Established in 1940, the Glen Davis Shale Oil Works were a strategic investment that produced petrol for New South Wales while at the same time providing work for unemployed miners. The process involved mining shale using the underground bord and pillar method. This shale then underwent treatment at the adjoining plant to extract the oil. Refining the oil produced petrol which at the time was important for the war effort.

Dwindling shale reserves, old machinery, and poor productivity led to the facility closing in 1952. All removable items were sold leaving only the buildings which are now ruins.

Getting There

Located in the Capertee Valley, the ruins are on private property, with access by guided tour only. We drove from Kandos, through the beautiful Capertee Valley and met our guide at the gates to the property. Payment is either by bank transfer prior to the tour, or cash on the day. Electronic payments can’t be processed because there is no phone reception.

On arrival, wait at the gates to “The Poplars” in your car until the guide arrives. They will let you through the gates and run through a safety briefing before starting the tour. While we waited we took the chance to look at the amazing valley walls that make up the Capertee Valley. Covered in gum trees, with the setting sun giving the rocks a red glow was a bonus to the trip.

Remember to bring lots of water and sunscreen because it can get very hot.

The Capertee Valley walls
The Capertee Valley walls

The Glen Davis Oil Shale Ruins Tour

Running around two hours, the tour takes you through the remaining structures on site. The guide was very informative and covered everything from the area’s history, how the plant worked and why it closed. For many of the buildings, he had photos of how it used to look.

The site has been used for TV show such as SAS Australia, so the guide pointed out where it took place.

The tour takes a loop through the site, so you are always seeing new sites, rather than back-tracking through places you have already see. This is great because it means the whole two hours was full with no repetition.

Unfortunately the ruins are not heritage listed, so have no protection. Also, the current owner is selling the property (as of November 2023), so a new owner is not obliged to provide tours, or even keep the buildings as they are.

Our photos are available for purchase on

To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.