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Rome

The Colosseum

How Did We Get To Rome?

Our stop before Rome was Pisa.  The hotel in Pisa was walking distance from the train station, so we decided that would be the easiest way to travel.  We purchased our tickets in Australia online before we left but could easily have been bought that morning at the station.  We preferred to pre-purchase to ensure we could get on board. The first train left very early, and was not very busy, so we relaxed and enjoyed the views of Italy as they passed by.

The train makes a few stops before reaching Rome, and it became crowded, with many of the later passengers standing for the journey. When we arrived in Rome, we caught a taxi to our hotel because it was too far to walk.  The taxi rank is right outside the main entrance making it easy to find.

Where did we stay?

Nearly all the attractions in Rome are close together (even the Vatican City was only a 40-minute walk), so we stayed centrally and walked everywhere.  The hotel we chose was Hotel Mancino 12.  The concierge stored our bags and as it was early, offered a complimentary breakfast from the buffet.  Very nice! 

When we returned later in the day, our room was ready, and we were very happy with it.  At night it was quiet, so we slept well.  The only concern with the room was water pressure in the shower, which is not really that important, just meant showers took a little longer.

Breakfast at the buffet was plentiful and we appreciated the all-day coffee available in the foyer.  We made use of this on numerous occasions.

Getting Around

Apart from two-day trips out of Rome we walked everywhere because everything was so close to our hotel.  These walks were planned so that we would see things on the way to and from the furthest attraction.  In Rome it seemed like there was an ancient ruin around every corner, if not a church or museum you hadn’t seen.

Finding a place to eat was not a problem.  If anything, there was too much choice.  We took the advice of previous travellers, and found restaurants off the main streets, as they were not so crowded, had better prices and the food was excellent.

Crossing roads can be a little daunting when you first arrive.  There are numerous pedestrian crossings, but the cars never seem to stop for them.  If you just stand at the side of the road, the cars will keep going.  Simply make sure there is room for the car to stop, walk out and it will stop.

Rome Walk
Rome Walk

What did we do?

We tried to see as much as possible in the time we had.  Many sites are on public display and easy to find, although they can become very crowded with tourists as we discovered.  For the Roman Forum and Colosseum, we organised a guided tour, so that an expert could explain the importance of the sites. This proved to be a great choice as the guides proved to be very knowledgeable and enthusiastic.

Forum / Palatine Hill

Colosseum

Trevi Fountain

Pantheon

Catacombs of Rome

Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars

Fontana del Tritone in Piazza Barberini

Piazza Navona

Sant’Agnese in Agone

Spanish Steps

Marcus Aurelius Column

Altar of the Fatherland

Capitoline Museums

Walking in Rome

What Did We Think?

Forum / Palatine Hill

We met our guide for the Forum at the Colosseum Metro station.  She was a young archaeologist and her enthusiasm for the topic was amazing.  We spent several hours walking around the area learning about its ruins and what they were all used for.  It was also interesting to discover that many old Roman buildings were re-purposed later for other uses.  Many old temples exist today only because they were turned into churches.

The area covered by the Forum is huge and we walked briskly to cover as much as we could.  From the entrance (we were first in for the morning!), we saw the Forum, Septimius Severus Arch and the Temple of Vesta.  Near this is Basilica di Santa Francesca Romana originally a Roman temple dedicated to Valerius Romulus.

The tour took us up to Palatino Hill, with its great views over Rome and then on to the Palatine Stadium.  Between each of these major points of interest were numerous other quick stops to see and have explained.  With an expert guide, the ruins were brought back to life and we could easily have spent the whole day there.

Unfortunately, it had to come to an end, which it did near the Arch of Constantine next to the Colosseum.

Remember to visit after dark as well. because the views from outside are great and many of the monuments are lit, giving a beautiful look to the ruins.

The Forum From Palatine Hill
The Forum From Palatine Hill
Trajan's Column
Trajan’s Column
Arch of Titus
Arch of Titus
Arch of Constantine
Arch of Constantine
The Forum From the Capitoline Museum
The Forum From the Capitoline Museum

Colosseum

The guided tour of the Colosseum was a continuation of the tour of the Forum.  The group was larger at around 20 people, but the guide was equally well-informed.  The Colosseum was very busy when our tour started, and the public access areas were packed.  This tour however, took us to three places that you must go with a guide to visit.

Our fist stop was the arena floor which allows you to walk out to where the gladiators fought and look up into the stands.  You also get a great view down to the lower level of the Colosseum where the animals and gladiators were kept.

The second stop was the lower levels where the workings of the Colosseum were explained, such as how people and animals accessed the arena.  There is also a replica of the lift used to move from the lower levels to the arena floor.

The final guided section was the upper levels.  This is the highest you can you and you are rewarded with a fantastic view of the interior of the Colosseum.

We were then free to walk around the rest of the monument at our leisure, but the highlight was certainly the guided tour.

To get a different perspective, we visited at night.  The whole outside structure is lit up and looks magnificent.  On our way there, we stopped for a look at the Forum at night as well.

The Colosseum Interior From the Upper Levels
The Colosseum Interior From the Upper Levels
The Colosseum From the Arena Floor
The Colosseum From the Arena Floor
Beneath the Colosseum
Beneath the Colosseum

Trevi Fountain

As all the reviews say, it’s crowded.  We had to wait ages to get to the front.  You can get photos from the sides a little easier, but views are not as good.  To avoid this, we came back a second time at 5:30AM.  They were still a lot of people there but nowhere near as many.

Remember you are not allowed to sit on the edge of the fountain.  There are guards around that will tell you off and blow a whistle to make you move.  Despite this, it is amazing how many people sat down.

This is one of the places infested with people trying to sell you things you don’t need.  They degrade the whole look and atmosphere of Rome.  We avoided them where possible, but they can get a bit pushy and in your face.  This was especially the case with flower sellers.  They present you with a flower, as if it’s a gift.  When you accept it, they demand payment.

Trevi Fountain
Trevi Fountain

Pantheon

Now a church dedicated to St. Mary and the Martyrs, the Pantheon was originally a Roman temple.  It’s excellent state of preservation is due to its re-purposing as a church and its continual usage since Roman times.

It looks spectacular from outside with its columns and inside is even better.  The domed ceiling is magnificent.  The first king of a united Italy Victor Emmanuel II is buried there as is his successor Umberto I.

The Pantheon
The Pantheon
The Pantheon Dome Interior
The Pantheon Dome Interior

Catacombs of Rome

One of only two bus trips we organised, because of the distance to travel, we found this experience extremely underwhelming.  The tour took us to the Domitilla catacombs, which were originally a Roman stone quarry.  Early Christians used them and there are some frescoes and early Christian symbols.  The alcoves where bodies were buried can be seen but no bodies are left.  After visiting the Paris catacombs, this was very disappointing because most of the time was spent walking down empty tunnels.  The guide made it worse by dumbing everything down and talking to us as if we hadn’t left high school. 

Museum and Crypt of the Capuchin Friars

This was part of the catacombs tour, but really, we could (and should) have done it ourselves.  It is easily reachable as it is in the centre of Rome. 

The Crypt consists of a series of rooms off a corridor.  You walk down the corridor and stare at the creepy bone decorated rooms and move on.  No photos are allowed. The monks are not allowed to repair the “displays”, so it is in a general state of disrepair.

Worth the 15 minutes to say you have been there, but nothing more.

Fontana del Tritone in Piazza Barberini

One of many fountains located throughout Rome.  This one is dedicated to Triton.  A very nice fountain and worth looking at if you are passing through the Piazza Barberini, where it is located.

Piazza Navona

The Piazza Navona contains three fountains.  The most famous is the Fountain of the Four Rivers which is, topped by the Obelisk of Domitian.  The other two smaller fountains are the Fountain of Neptune and the Fontana del Moro.  All three are great to relax around.

Fountain of the Four Rivers
Fountain of the Four Rivers
Fountain of the Four Rivers
Statues of the Four Rivers Fountain
Fountain of Neptune
Fountain of Neptune

Sant’Agnese in Agone

Just off the Piazza Barberini is the church of Sant’Agnese in Agone.  We spent some time in here admiring the artwork, sculptures and architecture of the building. There is also a shrine for Saint Agnes, containing her skull. Saint Agnes was an early Christian Saint Agnes who was martyred in the ancient Stadium of Domitian.

Spanish Steps

The Spanish Steps are another favorite spot for tourists to visit.  When we were there it was very crowded and full of people trying to sell us flowers, selfie sticks and other must have items.  The steps themselves are quite beautiful but trying to get a picture is difficult.  We climbed to the top and looked down, which gave a great view and a different perspective of the steps.

At the top is the church of the Santissima Trinità dei Monti which contains some amazing artwork and it worth a visit.  Women are requested to cover their heads and shoulders before entering the church.

The Spanish Steps
The Spanish Steps
Santissima Trinità dei Monti
Santissima Trinità dei Monti

The Column of Marcus Aurelius

Marcus Aurelius Column
Marcus Aurelius Column

The Column of Marcus Aurelius is in front of the Palazzo Chigi, the official residence of the Italian Prime Minister.  At nearly 30 metres high, it’s hard to miss.  This column is modelled on the more famous Trajan’s Column.  A statue of St Paul has replaced the statue of Marcus Aurelius.

Altar of the Fatherland

The Altar of the Fatherland (Altare della Patria) is a huge monument in the centre of Rome dedicated to Victor Emmanuel, the first king of a unified Italy.  This huge building is located near Capitoline Hill and is visible from much of the city.

There is a statue of Victor Emmanuel on a horse at the front as well as two statues of the goddess Victory riding in horse-drawn chariots.

Also housed here are the remains of the unknown soldier.  From the upper section of the building there are great views over the city.  There is a lift to the roof for what must be a spectacular view, but it was closed for repairs while we were there.

A great place to visit, learn about the Italian Unification and pay respects to the fallen soldiers.

Altar of the Fatherland
Altar of the Fatherland
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Capitoline Museums

The Capitoline Museums are a must see when visiting Rome.  They hold the best collection of Roman artefacts in the world that anyone remotely interested in history would want to see. The collection is huge, so unless you plan to spend several days there, it is a good idea to pick specific items you want to see.

If you do decide to look at everything, you might soon get tired of all the sculpture heads that fill numerous rooms, and the amazing number of statues.  We went through these rooms, but to make sure we remained interested, the visits were brief.  We sought out the She Wolf with Romulus and Remus, Venus, The Dying Gaul and Cupid and Psyche.

Some other items that should not be missed are the Colossus of Constantine and the bronze equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius.

No bags are allowed inside, but self-serve lockers are provided so you can safely store your bags.

The She Wolf with Romulus and Remus
The She Wolf with Romulus and Remus
Capitoline Museum
Capitoline Museum
Venus
Venus
Bacchus
Bacchus
Colossus of Constantine
Colossus of Constantine

Walking in Rome

One of the great things about walking in Rome was the discovery of unexpected places and small side streets.  Almost every turn brought us to something new and unexpected.  We found the Marcus Aurelius Column this way, because it just happened to be on the route we had chosen.

Crossing roads can be a little daunting when you first arrive.  There are numerous pedestrian crossings, but the cars never seem to stop for them.  If you just stand at the side of the road, the cars will keep going, however simply make sure there is room for the car to stop, walk out and it will stop.

What Did We Think?

We loved Rome, from the hotel to the history and the monuments.  The only issue we had were the swarms of people trying to sell things to tourists.  This made us feel uneasy a few times, but generally, the number of other people made us feel safe.  We went out each night for a meal (the food in Rome is excellent) and never felt unsafe.  We did however have all our things in backpacks that were lockable and pick-pocket proof.

Nine Days in Paris and Northern France

Gargoyle on the Bell Towers

Organised Trips in and around Paris

What Were Our Goals?

Paris and northern France was our first stop in a 30 day European holiday.

Our other destinations were Brussels, Amsterdam, a bus trip in Switzerland, Venice, Pisa and Rome.  A lot to fit into the time available, so we planned to see as much as we could, without skipping through things and missing the details.  Going somewhere just to take a picture and leave, isn’t our idea of a holiday.  We like to see something very well.  Even if it means missing out completely on something else.

Having only visited Paris once before, and then only briefly, we wanted to see the main attractions, while experiencing some of its more unusual aspects. We planned a total of nine days in this great city, about half of which would be spent on day trips to surrounding regions of France.

How Did We Get There?

Airfares were booked for Air France from Sydney to Paris, via Shanghai. These flights were code share and operated by China Eastern.  This was a bit of a gamble, for although the airfares were cheap the reviews for the operating airline are mixed.  We found that they comparable to the experience we had when we flew with Qantas and Cathay Pacific.  The food was typical airline food, and as expected Chinese, although pizza for breakfast was a little hard to take.

Flying time Sydney to Shanghai was 10.5 hours.  This was followed by a 4.5-hour stopover in Shanghai.  We had to check-in for the onward leg, as Sydney could not allocate us seats.  This meant a simple stop at the transit desk, where this was quickly done.  Then came the wait to get through an immigration check point, with only one booth open to check IDs and tickets.  This was followed by another wait at the security check, after which we made it into the departure terminal, found a coffee shop, bought some snacks and waited out the remaining time until our plane left at midnight. 

The final leg to Paris was a very long 12.5 hours.  We arrived at 6:30AM, clearing immigration with no problems and then looking for our booked transport to our hotel.  After some inquiries, we found it near one of the departure lounges.

Where Did We Stay?

We planned to use the Metro, or walk to most places in Paris itself.  To simplify this, we chose a centrally located hotel, near the Louvre and a Metro Station (Louvre Rivoli).  The Best Western Premier Louvre Saint Honoré is a small boutique hotel, with only three rooms to a floor. The booking was made directly through the hotel as their rates were better than we could find through online booking sites.

The staff we all very friendly and helpful.  Breakfast was served in a room downstairs, consisting of breads, pastries, cereals, hot food, cheeses and yogurt and some fresh fruit.  Nice strong coffee was also provided.  The room opened at 7:00AM, which was OK for half of the time we were there, but we often left earlier than this for some of the booked trips.

The room was small but comfortable.  We expected this, and were very happy with it.  The bathroom was also up to expectations.  Most importantly, the bed was comfortable and the room was quiet at night.  We heard little or no street noise while we were there.  As there were only three rooms on our floor, noise from other guests was also minimal.

Due to size restrictions, the lift was extremely small, fitting only two people with a suitcase each.  People with lots of luggage or families, made several trips to get to and from their rooms.  This didn’t bother us as there was only the two of us.

Overall, we were very happy with our choice of hotel.

Getting Around

The Metro

Travelling around central Paris is very easy.  If somewhere is a bit too far to walk, take the Metro.  It is extremely easy and efficient to use.  If you have been on the London Tube, New York Subway or any other underground system you will know how it works.  We purchased a seven-day ticket from one of the main stations.  These run from Monday to Sunday.  As we arrived on the Sunday, we could use if from our second day onward.  The ticketing staff showed us how to set it up.  You need a photo on the card.  You can use one of the photo booths, usually located in the stations, or as the staff member suggested, a photocopy of our passport photos. 

The 30 Euro cost was good for us, as we made several long train trips that cost over ten Euros each (to Provins).  Depending on how many trips you intend to take, purchasing individual tickets might be better.

Be aware that pick pockets operate in the metro system.  There are constant warnings in multiple languages over the PA system to remind people to be careful.  Keep your bags closed and where you can see them.  Don’t keep your wallet or phone in your pocket.

Museum Pass and Skip the Line

The Museum Pass and Skip the Line tickets are a must if you travel during the busy season. Lines in Paris to see popular (and also not so popular) sites can takes hours to negotiate. If you don’t have time to waste waiting in queues (and really who does when they are on holidays?), skip the line will save you hours.

The museum pass may seem expensive, but is valid over a number days, so can be great value if you plan wisely. Not only does it access many popular sites but for most is also a skip the line. So no waiting for tickets in the slow lane. That said though at some attractions there was a skip the line and although is moved much faster than the standard line it was still long. To get around this, you can opt for the more expensive option of a private tour. We did this for the Paris Catacombs where the waiting time was posted as 3 hours.

Walking

Depending on the weather, this is a great way to see more of Paris as you move between attractions.  Again, be careful of pick pockets.  Despite warnings and being aware of the danger, we had a phone stolen on the first day.  Fortunately, the thief discarded it, as it was pass locked.  Someone saw this and returned it to us.  Lesson learned.

Nearly everywhere you go there are street hawkers trying to sell everything from selfie sticks, water, sunglasses, hats and other cheap items.  They are generally more annoying than a hazard.  Just ignore them.  After a day, they blend into the back ground.  Their main impact is to make Paris and its attractions look cheap and degrade their appeal.

Organised Trips in Paris

Why pay for an organised trip, when you can visit many of the attractions yourself and not pay for a guide to escort you around?  For us there were several reasons, although they varied by attraction.

Firstly, many of the Paris attractions have huge (and I mean hours long) queues to get in.  You can get skip the line tickets, but these are becoming popular, so it means that instead of the very long line you go to the not so long line.   Guided tours mean you have a specific entrance time and do not have to wait.

Secondly, despite access to audio guides in many places, walking and talking with an expert who shows you specific items and areas along with their personal interaction, provides a far greater understanding of what you are experiencing.  A guide can be organised in your own language, so communication is easy.

Thirdly, there were trips too far from Paris for us to attempt in a day.  A bus trip seemed like the best way to do them.  See our detailed review of these trips to see what we thought.

Finally, some of the experiences simply are not available without a guide.

We found that all the drivers and guides we organised in France were excellent.  Their knowledge was first-rate and they were friendly and cheerful.  Each trip is listed below, with a brief description.  Click on the link for the larger review.

Paris Catacombs

The queue for the catacombs often stretches for several hours.  We chose a guided tour, as this both bypassed the queue as well as enabling us to visit areas off-limits to general visitors. Click on the link above for the full story.

Paris Catacombs
Paris Catacombs

Retro Sidecar Tour of Paris

This tour can only be done as a guided tour.  Absolutely brilliant experience and highly recommended, as you see Paris from a whole new perspective. 
Click on the link above for the full story.

The Retro Sidecar Paris
The Retro Sidecar

Loire Valley Chateaux

We took a small mini-van trip to the Loire Valley.  There were six of us and the driver/guide.  The guides experience and knowledge meant that we travelled to each château quickly and had a full briefing on its history as well as where to go to see it at its best.  Click on the link above for the full story.

Château de Chenonceau
Château de Chenonceau

Normandy and the D-Day Battlefields

Normandy seemed too far for us to travel without a car, but in hindsight we should have combined it with Mont Saint Michel and spent several days here on our own.  The guide was excellent, but we were often rushed and missed much that we would have liked to see in more depth.  Click on the link above for the full story.

Memorial Omaha Beach
Memorial Omaha Beach

Mont Saint Michel

Mont Saint Michel itself was amazing, but not worth a 14-hour day travelling to and from Paris.  This should have been combined into a multi-day stay in the area, to have a greater feel for Normandy.  Click on the link above for the full story.

Mont Saint Michel
Mont Saint Michel

Champagne Region

We visited the Champagne region as a small group mini-van trip.  With six of us in the van and a very friendly driver/guide we had a great time.  As we planned to sample the local produce, a driver was essential.  We were able to visit several Champagne houses as well as some minor ones. Click on the link above for the full story.

Vineyards in the Champagne District
Vineyards in the Champagne District

Versailles

We found a guided tour at Versailles that enabled us to ski the line, have breakfast there as well as see the King’s private apartments that are off-limits to unescorted visitors.  There were around 20 of us on the tour.  The driver took us there and then handed us over to our guide for the palace who was exceptional in her knowledge.  The palace is breath-taking and the gardens magnificent.  The tour and the palace all exceeded expectations.

Hall of Mirrors Versailles Paris
Hall of Mirrors Versailles
Private Chapel Versailles Paris
Private Chapel Versailles

Day Trip From Paris – Self Guided

The Medieval Town of Provins

We visited Provins on our own, as there is a train that runs from Gare de l’Est to the town.  The train takes about 90 minutes with return trains roughly every hour.  We found it very easy to get around the town on foot and visited most of the attractions there. The big advantage of travelling by ourselves was that if something interested us, we could stay and explore longer and once finished we could leave.  Click on the link above for the full story.

Provins City Walls
Provins City Walls

Major Attractions Visited

The Louvre Museum

The Louvre is very busy during the day, making it difficult to see some of the famous exhibits.  We went in the evening, when the crowds were much smaller.  We could walk around at our leisure and enjoy the museum, without being crushed by fellow tourists.

During the day, hawkers and pick pockets infest the approaches to the museum, so be careful.

Pyramids at the Louvre Paris
Pyramids at the Louvre
Babylonian Statues Paris
Babylonian Statues
Caryatid Columns Paris
Caryatid Columns

Arc de Triomphe

We caught the Metro to travel here.  There is a walk way under the road, so that you do not have to brave the eight lanes of insane traffic that travel around it.  As well as walking around the base of the monument, take the trip to the roof.  There are fantastic views from the top.  The museum pass gets you free access inside.

View From the Roof Paris
View From the Roof
Paris From The top of the Arc de Triomphe
Paris From The top of the Arc de Triomphe

Musee d’Orsay

Again, we used the metro to get here.  Not really being art experts, we walked around looking for the famous works that are on display.  Unlike many people, we did not spend long here.  Some art lovers can spend days browsing the masterpieces on display.

Notre Dame Cathedral and Bell Towers

One of the iconic must-see destinations in Paris.  Entry to the Cathedral is free.  There is usually a line outside, which gets longer during the day.  It moves very quickly, so don’t be put off if it seems long.  The interior of the cathedral is immense, so no matter how big the queue might be, the crowds inside don’t seem as big.

Entry to the Bell Towers has an entry fee.  The Museum Pass does not cover this.  There used to be a huge queue here, but this has now been replaced by a ticket and time system, so you know when you can get in.  There is an App that you can download to get your time.  The climb to the top is quite steep and can be a little confining.  The views at the top, the gargoyles and the bells of course are amazing.

Gargoyle on the Bell Towers Paris
Gargoyle on the Bell Towers

Basilica du Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre

When we got off the Metro here, we found out that the lift was not working.  The climb to the top seemed worse than the Bell Towers or Arc de Triomphe.  We used the funicular to travel the last hill to the top.  A fun experience itself and covered by the Metro Pass.  Entry to the Basilica is free.  The interior is breath-taking.  The views from the steps over the city are worth the trip there.

Basilica du Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre
Basilica du Sacre-Coeur de Montmartre

Curie Museum

We use the Metro travel to the Curie Museum (Musée Curie – Institut du radium) and walk from the closest metro station (Luxembourg) to the site. The institute itself consists of the old work rooms set up as Madam Curie used them.

It was interesting to find out that some of the laboratories had become so contaminated with radiation that they were only decontaminated in 1981 and only then deemed suitable to be open to the public. On display are instruments from the early 1900s and an excellent history of the Curie family and their scientific discoveries. With five Nobel Prizes, the Curie family must rank as one of the highest achieving families in history.

A great place to visit and learn about the early days of scientific investigation into radioactivity.

Marie Curie's Laboratory
Marie Curie’s Laboratory

Army Museum and Napoleon’s Tomb

As with most major museums, the Museum Pass gives free entry here.  The main reason for our visit was to see Napoleon’s Tomb, which is gigantic and a fitting tribute to the Little General.  The interior, especially the altar is spectacular.  Only a brief look at the remainder of the museum was made.  Several hours at least would be needed to do it justice.

Napoleon's Tomb Paris
Napoleon’s Tomb

Pantheon

Originally a church, this amazing building is now the final resting place of many famous French men and women, including Victor Hugo and Marie Curie.  The Museum Pass covers the entry fee.

Pantheon Paris
Pantheon

As well as these major attractions, we visited, passed through or passed by many others.  Each worth a quick visit.  Paris was many gardens, statues, fountains, buildings, districts and streets deserving of a visit. 

Eiffel Tower Paris
Eiffel Tower
Fontaine des Fleuves Paris
Fontaine des FleuvesPlace de la Concorde