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Greenland

Iceberg in Disko Bay Ilulissat Greenland

Getting to Greenland

We flew into Greenland with Air Greenland, out of Copenhagen. There was one stop on the way to our final destination of Ilulissat, with a change of planes at Kangerlussuaq. On arrival there is a small international terminal, with a customs desk. You need to go past this, to get to the internal Greenland flights, although this isn’t immediately obvious. They do not do announcements in English either, so you need to look at the board, as you need to get a bus transfer out to the plane. The flight to Ilulissat was short and did not get very high, which allowed us to see a lot of the Greenland snow covered landscape as we went.

Arrival in Ilulissat

We were met at the airport by our tour operator from Arctic Adventure, who ensured that we had got on the shuttle bus to our hotel. He met us again at the hotel, where we were given an overview of our activities. Our previous flight to Copenhagen (via Stockholm) had resulted in a lost suitcase. When we told him that our luggage was lost in Stockholm he offered to take us to some shops so that we could purchase some clothes and toiletries. He also lent us some cold weather overalls for the duration of our stay. Fantastic service and a great introduction to Greenland.

Hotel Arctic

The Hotel Arctic proved to be a great place to stay. The staff were very friendly and helpful and our stay there was very pleasant. There are two options for meals with informal dining available at the bar or more formal meals in the restaurant. We tried both a were happy with the food and the local beer on  offer. Yes Ilulissat has its own brewery!

Although it is located outside to the actual town a shuttle bus operates every hour and is a reliable way to get to and from town for tours, shopping or meals. They even saw us walking back to the hotel once and stopped to give us a lift. If you do want to walk yourself its only a 20 minute , but is cold in winter!

The hotel also offers transfers to and from the airport. They take care of boarding passes and weigh suitcases and put them on the bus prior to departure, so you do not have to worry about any of those things.

As an option, several igloo rooms are available overlooking the bay. these are currently being renovated, but would be great fun to stay in once complete.

Town tour of Ilulissat

After a stop at a local shop our guide took us on a tour of Ilulissat showing us all of the major points of interest and explaining the history of the town. The highlight was a visit to the local harbour where we saw the fishermen bringing the day’s catch. The harbour still had a lot of ice and many boats were ice bound and looking surreal.

On another occasion while driving in the Hotel Arctic’s shuttle bus, we passed some Husky puppies, looking very cute. The driver stopped so that we could get a good look at them.

Harbour

Zion’s Church

Another interesting stop in town was Zion’s Church. It was closed when we were there but we were able take some great photos.

Snow Shoe and a Northern Light Walk

After dinner at hotel on our first night, we went on a snow shoe walk in the dark. The walk took us about two hours and walking through the snow in the dark was a great experience. It was a clear cold night and the stars were brilliant although the northern lights only put in a small appearance, it was great to see.

Iceberg Sight Seeing

Our guide met us outside World of Greenland before driving us to the harbour, where we boarded our ship for the tour. Although catering for 36 people in the peak season, only ten of us took this trip. This meant that there was plenty of room for everyone.

The tour started with a safety briefing in the cabin and then some tips on taking photos. The guide was also available to explain the local bird and wildlife, as well as the effects of climate change on the local area. You have options of staying outside or spending time inside having tea and biscuits. The crew are really helpful at all times, and are exceptionally experienced at navigating the ice under the water. So safety is not a problem.

Snowmobile Exploration

We were the first customers for the new tourist season and had the trip to ourselves along with our guide. After an initial safety briefing and operating instructions, we were away.

The trip first ran over flat ground, which gave us an opportunity to get used to the 350kg machines and their handling. This was important, because before long we were going up steep hills and around bends.

Driving through amazing arctic scenery, we passed several dog sled teams, before stopping for a coffee and admiring the Arctic sunrise from on top of a mountain overlooking the ice fjord.

This was a fantastic experience, not the least of which was discovering that although these heavy machines sit on top of the snow, when you get off, you might sink waste deep. Probably best to take snow shoes!

Lunch in town

Several times we walked into and then around town to take photos of tbe colourful Greenlandic buildings and magnificent views out to sea. There were icebergs in Disko Bay visible from Ilulissat. After walking around in the minus 20 degrees Celsius we went to the cafe to have a hot chocolate a meal and warm up. The locals are extremely friendly,

Museum

The Ilulissat Museum is a three storied building in the centre of town. Opening hours vary depending on the time of year, so check before visiting. There is a small entrance fee, which also entitles you to entry at the art gallery.

Exhibits are spread over the top two floors, where they are well laid out with information cards in several languages including English.

The third floor contains an informative display of pre Christian Greenlandic culture, with an emphasis on shamanistic religion.

Helicopter Flight to the Glacier

A great way to see the interior of Greenland is by helicopter. We had a flight booked, to take us up onto the glacier, but unfortunately due to bad weather, it was cancelled. It was snowing all day so we walked around town, admired the views and had hot drinks and snacks at the cafe.

Flying back to Copenhagen, we again transferred planes in Kangerlussuaq, where we caught up with our missing bag.

What Did We Think?

We had a fantastic time in Greenland. The people were friendly, the accommodation great and the sights and activities amazing. We went in winter to experience the cold and ice and it easily lived up to our expectations.

Our photos are available for purchase on

Rovaniemi Finland in Winter

Rovaniemi in Winter

Rovaniemi in winter was the highlight of our Nordic Trip.  Located just south of the Arctic Circle in northern Finland, Rovaniemi was everything we had hoped for.  In mid December, there is only just over two hours of actual daylight, although twilight ran from before 7:00am until 5:30pm.  Temperatures are usually well below freezing, but for our trip, only dropped as low as -10 degrees C.

Flying Helsinki to Rovaniemi

Accommodation

We flew Finnair into Rovaniemi, arriving around 4:30pm.  The baggage collection hall is a tourist attraction in itself, with its displays.  We hired one of the many taxis outside the airport and were at our hotel by 5:30. We stayed at the City Hotel, in the centre of town.  Hotels book out quickly in December, so get in early, we had trouble finding somewhere to stay.  We were lucky though, as this hotel was OK.  The rooms were small and in need refurbishment, but the breakfast was excellent as was the location.  Besides, we spent very little time in the hotel.

On the first evening, we went for a walk around town.  Remember to bring warm clothes as the temperature if often below minus 20 degrees C.  There had recently been a snow fall, so the town was very picturesque, with fresh snow covering everything.  All the streets were well-lit and we felt very safe walking around.  There were a few eating options, even the northern most MacDonald’s, if you really want a Big Mac.

Rovaniemi Finland
Christmas Trees

Rovaniemi Finland
Bikes in the Snow Rovaniemi

Dog Sledding

Our first morning was dog sledding with Bear Hill HuskyWe were picked up outside the hotel and driven by bus out of town.  They have a great set-up, and provide all the gear you need, even socks and boots, so that yours don’t get wet.  After a thorough safety talk, you get to meet your husky team.  You ride in pairs, with one driving and the other riding in the sled.  At the half way point, you swap, so that everyone gets to drive.  Driving is quite tiring, as you spend a lot of time running, or pushing the sled when it gets stuck.

We had a brilliant time, with all the fresh snow and the enthusiastic dogs and a great trail through the trees.  The guides made sure we were all safe and doing the right thing.  Several were on snow mobiles, so they could ride back and forth to check us all.

Rovaniemi Finland
Dog Sledding Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi Finland
Dog Sledding at Rovaniemi

After we finished and got changed, we had hot berry juice and biscuits, before being taken back into town.

We spent lunch time and a few hours until out next activity looking around Rovaniemi.  There really isn’t too much to see in town itself, as we came for the activities.

Snow Mobile

We were picked up for our snow mobile trip late in the afternoon.  Again, we were driven out of town and this time to the Santa Village, where they were based.  Again, we were given all the gear we would need as well as a safety brief on the snow mobiles.  Unlike the dog sled, we were a little disappointed with this one.  The track was along a road, and the snow was very corrugated and bumpy, to the point of being uncomfortable.  We had thought we were going off-road into fresh snow.  Even so, snow mobiling at night in sub-zero temperatures was an excellent experience.

Rovaniemi Finland
Snow Mobiling at Night in Rovaniemi

Reindeer Farm and Ice Fishing

Early the next morning we were picked up by a local reindeer farmer, and taken out to his property.  We had a 30 minutes ride on a reindeer sled, followed by ice fishing on a frozen lake.  We actually caught fish, although none of them were big enough to eat.  Quite an experience, drilling through the ice with an auger and dropping a fishing line in.  After the fishing, we had a bar-b-que on the lake of reindeer sausages.  The owner was very friendly and very happy to talk about his lifestyle, reindeer farming and heritage and was pleased we spent so much time there.

Rovaniemi Finland
Traditional Arctic House in the Snow near Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi Finland
Reindeer at Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi Finland
Rovaniemi Reindeer Sledding

Rovaniemi Finland
Reindeer and Sleds at Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi Finland
Ice Fishing on Frozen Lake Rovaniemi

Santa Village

In the afternoon, we were dropped back at the Santa Village to walk around ourselves.  This place is very popular at Christmas time, and is one of the main reasons some people go to Rovaniemi.  We thought it was very touristy, but still had a good look around a queued up to see Santa and had photos taken with him.  Whoever plays Santa does a great job, as he asks where you’re from and asks appropriate questions about your home country.  All good fun.

There is also an “official” Santa’s post office if you want to send cards or letters.  In the village is an official marking of the Arctic Circle, so you can take your picture standing in the Arctic.

 

Rovaniemi Finland
One of Santa’s Elves

Rovaniemi Finland
Santa’s House at Rovaniemi

Rovaniemi Finland
The Arctic Circle at Santa’s Village Rovaniemi

Arktikum

Our last evening was spent at Arktikum.  This museum has an excellent series of displays on the Arctic, from human exploration, pre-history, the Suomi people and wildlife.  There is also a section showing how much the town suffered during World War Two, with the German occupation.

Rovaniemi

We flew Finnair back to Helsinki and onward to Singapore.  A great airline, they provided excellent service and a fantastic experience.  From Singapore, we flew Qantas back to Sydney.