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Tromsø in Far North Norway

Northern Lights Aurora Tromsø Norway

How Did We Get To Tromsø ?

We flew into Tromsø from Greenland via Copenhagen, which meant an overnight stay in Copenhagen. Flying with SAS we arrived in Tromsø in the early afternoon, catching the Flybussen to our hotel, the Ishavshotel. The Flybussen service was convenient, cheap and friendly, with our tickets pre purchase online before we left. Even better, its drop off point was right at our hotel’s doorstep.

Where Did We Stay?

The Ishavshotel sits on Tromsø Harbour, giving magnificent views when dining and from our room. The picturesque views of a snow covered city were amazing. Being in the centre of town, made it very easy to walk to all of the places we wanted to see, with several of the tours picking up here, or at nearby hotels.

Walking Around Tromsø

Getting around by foot was easy, as long as you were careful of the ice and snow. Some people were wearing spikes, but we chose not to and did not have a problem with slipping. When crossing roads, most cars stopped to let you cross, even without pedestrian crossings.

On the first night, we walked around the town and harbour in the dark. This gave us some great views of the town and its buildings. Snow covered, icey buildings and statues lit up were beautiful.

Polaria

The Tromsø Aquarium is small, but packs a great deal in. Specializing in arctic sea life, the main attraction are the seals in their large tank. Their antics can keep you entertained for ages. The seals can be viewed from above the water, or through windows and Perspex to see them underwater. There are also smaller tanks with fish, crabs and starfish on display.

The building itself is a great attraction, with its design representing blocks of falling ice.

A large gift shop sells a variety of souvenirs and a café on the upper levels have a range of food and drinks. We spent under an hour here as once you have seen the seals, the other displays can be seen quickly. However, if you have kids, there are a lot of activities there to keep them entertained.

Arctic Cathedral

We walked to the Arctic Cathedral on the way to the Tromsø Cable Car. As we passed it a service was preparing to start. Many of the people attending were in traditional Norwegian dress and were happy to pose for pictures. When we returned after our cable car ride to the top of the mountain the service had finished and we went inside to admire its unique design.

Tromsø Cable Car

The Tromsø Cable car operates every 30 minutes in each direction to Fjellheisen. The trip only takes about 5 minutes. Wait until you get to the top to take photos as the cable car is crowded and the windows foggy and icy. Once at the top, there are great
views over Tromsø and the surrounding countryside. During winter, the snow at the top of the mountain is deep and slippery in places so take care. You can take spikes in your backpack and then put them on once up on top of the mountain..

There is a very nice café serving food and hot drinks with panoramic views over Tromsø.


Tromsø Ice Domes

The Ice Domes are located at Camp Tamok a 90 minute bus drive from Tromsø . The tour commences with a fascinating video of how the ice comes are made, from the dome itself, to the ice sculptures that decorate it.

The tour through the hotel rooms is interesting, with each bedroom having a different Norwegian theme, from polar bears and wolves to vikings. The beds are made on wooden frames with reindeer hide for insulation. You are allowed to try them out during the visit and they are surprisingly warm.

The Ice Bar decorated with two ice sculptures of giant vikings, giving the bar a great atmosphere. The walls are also decorated with ice sculptures. Our tour allowed us one free drink at bar after which we could purchase more. The drinks are served in glasses made of ice.

Next to the Ice Domes, there is a wooden building with a café serving hot drinks and meals. This was a great place to go after the icey interior of the domes and warm up before the trip back to town.

Fjord Cruise by RIB Boat

The Fjord Cruise by RIB Boat was an exciting trip around the waterways surrounding
Tromsø. It was snowing heavily when we did the trip, so part of the fun was being blasted by snow flakes as you speed along at 45 knots.

You are provided with all the protective gear you will need, arctic overalls, hat, glasses and gloves. Even with all this, we still got cold, but had a great time.

On the way, we stopped at the remains of the German world War Two battleship Tirpitz, as well as some islands, where birds breed in spring. Due to the weather, we did not see any wildlife, except for some seagulls.

Polarmuseet Tromso Polar Museum

This small museum has a collection dedicated to arctic exploration and early settlements in the far north. There are some interesting displays and if you have some spare time, worth having a look through.

Northern Lights Trip

The  night we booked a northern lights bus trip for was cloudy and we did not see the aurora. We spent four hours driving around the countryside, trying to find a break in the clouds, but had no luck.

As it was our last chance to see the aurora and the forecast was for a high chance to see it we booked another trip out of town. Our guide took us to several locations until we had an amazing view of the lights. Our guide helped us set cameras to the best settings and was determined that we were going to get at least a glimpse of them. He was constantly talking to other guides to see what location was providing good  viewing.

Our tour operators were determined to drive for as long as needed for us to see the lights, even if it mean that we would cross the border into Finland. We were lucky after seeing the initial magic, we got into the bus, and were asked to quickly jump off as the operator noticed a huge wave of purple and green lights, which we were all lucky to see before it disappeared . We would definitely recommend Northern Lights Tromsø as a tour company.

What Did We Think?

We loved Tromso, mainly for the activities that can be done there, such as the northern lights and RIB boat. In summer when more wild life is visible, it would be a great place for more outdoor activities.

Our photos are available for purchase on

Oslo Norway

Oslo Norway

Arriving in Oslo at the Central Train Station at 3:00PM, we made our way to our hotel.  It was just across the road from the station, only a few minutes’ walk.  Very handy, as we were departing by train too.  The train station is very large and modern.  We found it easy to find our way around.

The Clarion Hotel Royal Christiania check in was quick and easy and we liked the rooms.  Nice and comfortable and importantly warm.

Tourist Information Bureau

After dropping our bags off and having a quick freshen up, we headed out to find the local Tourist Information Bureau.  It is located outside the train station and is well sign posted and easy to find.  The staff were very friendly and helpful.  As the bus and tram public transport system is very efficient, we asked about getting passes for the next two days.  They sell the passes there and showed us the best places to catch buses and which numbers to get for the places we intended going to.

Oslo Central Train Station

Outside the Visitor Centre and the Train Station is a large open public space.  We took pictures of the Tiger Statue and Thor’s Hammer that are located there.  During our visit the latest Star Wars movie was being released, so there was a life-sized model of a crashed Tie Fighter as well.  We were very lucky and got some good photos while there were not too many crowds around.

Tiger - Oslo Railway Station
Tiger – Oslo Railway Station
Star Wars Tie Fighter - Oslo Railway Station
Star Wars Tie Fighter – Oslo Railway Station
Mjölnir Thor's Hammer - Oslo
Mjölnir Thor’s Hammer – Oslo

Karl Johans Gate

Opposite the train station is Karl Johans Gate, the main shopping street in Oslo.  Most of the street is a pedestrian mall, except for the cross roads, so be careful when you cross.  The road goes past the cathedral and the parliament building, but we only had a quick look, as we planned to have a better look in two days’ time.

There were large crowds at the Grand Hotel, as the Nobel Peace Prize was being awarded.  The security was visible but not over the top.  The one thing that we found really disturbing was the number of people begging on the streets.  This would be the same in other cities we were to visit as well.

Viking Ship Museum

On the first full day in Oslo, we caught a number 30 bus to the Bygdøy Peninsular.  Some of Oslo’s best museums are located here and we planned to see several of them if time permitted.  We started at the Viking Ship Museum.  The bus stopped right outside, and we arrived just before opening time.  This enabled us to see all the exhibits without crowds.  The three 9th century ships on display are magnificent and the museum really should be a must see for anyone interested in Viking history.

Viking Ship Museum
Viking Ship Museum
Viking Ship Museum
Viking Ship Museum
Viking Ship Museum Oslo
Oslo Viking Ship Museum

Norwegian Folk Museum

A short walk back up the road is the huge open air Norwegian Folk Museum.  Buildings of historical importance from all over Norway have been located here for preservation.  We loved the stave church and the farming village, all set out as they used to be.  It would be possible to spend a whole day here if you wanted to see everything that is available, but we were time limited, so stuck to the plan to see the attractions that interested us the most.  Then we headed in from the cold and had a hot chocolate in the café.

The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History Oslo
The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History
Norsk Folkemuseum
The Norwegian Museum of Cultural History Oslo
Stave Church – The Norsk Folkemuseum
Stave Church - The Norsk Folkemuseum
Stave Church – The Norsk Folkemuseum

Kon-Tiki Museum

We caught the bus outside the museum to the Fram Museum a bit further along the road.  Also located here are the Kon-Tiki and Maritime Museums.  If you buy multi-entry tickets, you get a 10% discount.  We started with the Kon-Tiki.  It gives a full history of Thor Heyerdahl’s adventures and has many artefacts from Thor Heyerdahl’s life, most importantly the Kon-Tiki.

Thor Heyerdahl – Kon Tiki Museum

Fram Polar Exploration Ship Museum

Moving on to the main reason for our visit to the ship museums were went in the amazing Fram Polar Exploration Ship Museum.  The Fram herself is located within one of the buildings along with the Gjøa.  Norway’s proud Polar exploration history is all on display here, from the ships to other artifacts and well laid out displays.  Anyone interested in exploration and what these adventurers went through would love this museum.

The Fram was able to be boarded and you can wander the decks and interior to get a feel for what it was like on board.

Polar Exploration Ship The Fram
Polar Exploration Ship The Fram
The Fram - Polar Exploration Ship
The Fram – Polar Exploration Ship
Gjøa Exploration Ship
Gjøa Exploration Ship
Gjøa Exploration Ship
Gjøa Exploration Ship

Maritime Museum

After visiting the Fram Museum, the Maritime Museum seems quite dull.  The displays are all good quality and the museum is well laid out and run, but we did not spend long there and caught the bus back to central Oslo.

Polar Explorer Statues - Norsk Maritimt Museum Oslo
Polar Explorer Statues – Norsk Maritimt Museum Oslo

Vigeland Park

On our second day, we took a tram out to the Vigeland Park (Vigelandsparken).  It is full of sculptures by Gustav Vigeland, mostly depicting the various stages of human existence.  A very nice park and relaxing to walk around.  Early in the morning, we almost had it to ourselves.

The Vigeland Park
The Vigeland Park
Vigelandsparken Sculpture Park

Royal Palace

On the way back into town, we stopped at the Royal Palace and took a few photos of the building itself and of the guards that were wandering around.

Royal Palace Oslo
Royal Palace Oslo
Royal Palace Oslo
Royal Palace Oslo

Akershus Fortress

Walking back we went past the Akershus Fortress and Franklin D Roosevelt Statue.  The statue is only of interest if you’re passing, but the fortress is impressive.  The fortress itself was closed, but you can still wander around the extensive grounds and visit the military museum contained in it.  It has a large collection, of military hardware on display.  Worth a look if you are into your military history.

Franklin D Rosevelt Statue
Oslo
Akershus – Oslo
Walls of Akershus
Oslo
Akershus at Sunset
M-48 Tank at Akershus

Opera House

We called into the Opera House and walked up onto the roof.  You can get some great views of the city from there, but it was very windy.

Oslo
Oslo Opera House

Historical Museum

The afternoon was spent at the Historical Museum (another tram ride).  There is a nice display of Viking artifacts, which we were interested in seeing.  As a tourist, the rest of the museum was interesting, but not unique, with display from around the world, but really the sort of things any other capital city museum would have.

Oslo
Oslo Historical Museum Viking Shield
Viking Swords at the Oslo Historical Museum

National Gallery of Norway

Nearby is the National Gallery of Norway.  Of interest here is The Scream by Edward Munch.  On our way back to the hotel, we stopped to look at the parliament building, but is was obscured by Christmas decorations (a large wooden building – not that we are complaining, the Christmas decorations were very nice).

Oslo
Norwegian Parliament

So what did we think of Oslo?  Apart from the beggars, we loved it.  There was plenty to see and do.  The public transport is efficient and very easy to use.  The people were friendly and helpful.  What more could you want?

Norway in a Nutshell Bergen to Oslo

Norway in a Nutshell Bergen to Oslo

The first thing to say about the Norway in a Nutshell tour is that we were initially very tentative about taking it.  After reading a lot of on-line reviews we were concerned about over-crowding, missing connections, not getting seating and generally feeling uncomfortable.  Our travel agent made some enquiries for us, and convinced us that taking the tour in the off-season (we travelled in December) would mean that there would be fewer other travelers and no crowding.  We took the chance that she was right and went ahead and booked the Bergen to Oslo option, with an overnight stay in Flåm.  As you will see below, we were very glad we took her advice.

There are several things to consider before taking this tour.  Firstly, it is not an accompanied tour.  There is no tour guide.  Norway in a Nutshell, book all your tickets.  These tickets are sent to you and you then use them to travel on the trains, bus and boat.  Finding your way around and getting to the next pickup point is your responsibility.  As we found out, this is not difficult.  Secondly, consider the time of year you are travelling and if the crowds other people mention will be a problem for you.

The tour can be taken several ways.  Bergen to Oslo, Oslo to Bergen, or either of these with a return train trip.  There is also an option to stay overnight at Flåm.

Our trip started in Bergen.  We walked from the hotel to the train station, for the 8:00AM train trip.  We went to the ticket counter and showed our tickets to the staff, who were very friendly.  They explained which train to get on and which platform it was departing from.  They also told us the connecting bus at our stop was easy to find and people there would help us.  Feeling reassured, we bought a coffee and settled down until the departure time.

Bergen Railway Station Early Morning
Bergen Railway Station Early Morning The Start of Norway in a Nutshell

In December, it was still dark as the train departed, so we did not get to see much scenery until we were almost at Voss.  At this stage, there were lots of snow-covered mountains and snowy scenery to be seen.  If you think this scenery is good, but can’t get a good photo, don’t worry, there is better to come later.

Views From Bergen Railway
Views From Bergen Railway

Arriving in Voss, there is an announcement that this is the departure point for those on the tour.  The train station is quite small.  We gathered our bags, and walked to the front of the station where six or so buses were parked.  Not sure which one to get on, we asked one of the drivers, who pointed us in the right direction.

The bus trip from Voss to Gudvangen was very scenic.  The drive goes through many windy roads and past lots of very scenic countryside.  At Gudvangen, there is a reasonable stop, with plenty of time for a coffee, snack and toilet break.  There is also a gift shop and some displays to look at as well as some of the scenery you have come to see.  When the boat is ready to depart (we had the Lady Elisabeth), you all get on board and find a seat.  Being winter, most people claimed seats inside where it was warm, and then went out on deck.  In summer, it would probably be very crowded and maybe seating would be at a premium, but for us, we had a private table in a corner by a window.

The Lady Elisabeth on Nærøyfjord
The Lady Elisabeth on Nærøyfjord

For the first hour, it was very busy on deck, with everyone trying to get the best photos.  After this, many headed inside to the warmth.  This was the time to be on deck, as you had an uninterrupted view of the magnificent scenery.  Going down the Nærøyfjord was spectacular.  It lived up to all our expectations.  Snow covered mountains on both sides of us and picturesque villages now and then on the shores.  The Lady Elisabeth called into one of the villages to let someone off and deliver the mail, giving us a close-up view.

The Nærøyfjord
The Nærøyfjord
Village on the Nærøyfjord
Village on the Nærøyfjord

Arriving in Flam a bit after 2:00PM. It was already getting dark.  We went to our hotel to check in as we had decided to split the trip up and overnight here.  The Fretheim Hotel is very close to the docks and easily walkable with suitcases.  There were very few guests staying, as most other people on the tour travelled straight though to Oslo.  Once they had gone, we had the area almost to ourselves.  The views of the Aurlandsfjord and surrounding mountains was excellent and we enjoyed an afternoon coffee and a snack at the café.

Fretheim Hotel Flåm Norway in a Nutshell
Fretheim Hotel Flåm

As for Flåm itself, there is not too much to do, but we were there for the scenery and a relaxing break, rather than rushing around. 

Our rooms at the Fretheim Hotel were somewhat old and in need of a facelift.  The bath/shower was also an accident waiting to happen.  Climbing over the bath into the shower could easily result in a slip, so be careful.  The lobby was very nicely appointed, and the dinner we had, was delicious.  Breakfast was provided as part of the tariff and was plentiful, even though there were not many guests.

Our train departed at 7:00AM, so it was still dark.  This made the train platform very atmospheric, with the station’s light and surrounding mountains.  The Flåm railway, is famous for its restored train carriages and the rail line itself which wins through the mountains to Myrdal.  The carriages really are very nice and have large windows so you have an excellent view of the scenery.

Flåm Railway Early Morning Norway in a Nutshell
Flåm Railway Early Morning
Flåm Railway Carriage
Flåm Railway Carriage

There were no allocated seats, so get on first and get a good seat.  For us this wasn’t a problem, as there very only eight of us getting on at Flåm.  The conductor, suggested which side to sit on for the best view as well, which was nice.

The views really are great and there are several stops along the way for passengers to get off at other villages.  This time of year, there were people with skis.  There is a longer stop at the water fall about half way through the journey.  This was a great photo stop for the waterfall, as well as the train sitting in the snow near the tunnel.

Waterfall on the Flåm Railway Norway in a Nutshell
Waterfall on the Flåm Railway
Flåm Railway in the Snow
Flåm Railway in the Snow

The Flåm railway terminates at Myrdal, where you transfer to the Bergen to Oslo train.  The Myrdal station was unmanned, but there are displays showing train arrivals and departures and which platform to be on.  This station was quite beautiful in the undisturbed snow.  No one else had been there all morning and the snow was pristine.  It probably wouldn’t look so picturesque in summer.

Myrdal Railway Station in the Snow Norway in a Nutshell
Myrdal Railway Station in the Snow

The trip from Myrdal to Oslo was pleasant, but the scenery is not as good as what we had just seen from Gudvangen to Flåm.  The train was clean and comfortable.  Food is available to buy if you want it as well.  The Oslo train station is modern and easy to find you way around.  If you want taxis or buses, they are all available just outside.

So, what did we think of Norway in a Nutshell?  In a word: brilliant.  It easily met our expectations and the scenery surpassed them.  The ticketing was all in place and worked well.  The accommodation was OK, but we were there for the scenery.  The main Bergen to Oslo train, was nothing special, but got us to where we needed to be for the boat trip down the fjord and the Flåm Railway.

Would we recommend it?  For the off season when we travelled, certainly.  It wasn’t crowded and the scenery was brilliant.  As for travelling at the height of the tourist season, we can’t say.