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Manly to North Head Walk

Manly to North Head Walk

The walk from Manly to North Head takes you past some beautiful beaches with views over the coast, through coastal scrub and passes old fortifications. Finally ending at the entrance to Sydney Harbour, it has spectacular views of the city.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Manly is to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. If you’re new to Sydney, this is an attraction in itself, because the Sydney Harbour ferries form an important part of the local public transport. During the ferry ride, you get some brilliant views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge as well as all the other boat traffic on the water.

Start of the Walk

Catching the Manly Ferry from Circular Quay, we arrived at Manly Wharf at 9:30 am. We planned our walk to take us along the shore to Shelly Beach where we would follow a track to the Barracks Precinct. Not only would this give us views over the coast but take us past some old fortifications and gun emplacements.

From the Manly wharf, we walked down The Corso, which is a pedestrian mall leading to the beach.

Manly Beach

One of the most popular Sydney beaches, Manly Beach is a great place for a swim or relaxing on the sand. We bought a coffee at a kiosk near the south end of the beach before starting the walk.

Manly Beach
Manly Beach

Manly to Shelly Beach

Starting at the south end of Manly Beach, the path follows the coastline, which is rocky until you reach Shelly Beach. There are plenty of places with places to look up and down the coast and back to Manly, giving you some amazing views.

Along the way look out for small metal sculptures of local wildlife. These have been placed on the rocks next to the path.

About halfway to Shelly Beach, Fairy Bower Pool is a protected ocean pool where you can swim. The pool is also decorated with a sculpture of two fairies.

Shelly Beach

Shelly Beach is a secluded and serene crescent-shaped beach surrounded by nice shady trees. As well as a grassed area to relax on it has a kiosk where you can buy refreshments before continuing the walk.

From Shelly Beach, the track goes uphill to head along the cliffs to the south.

Shelly Beach Manly Sydney Australia
Shelly Beach

Shelly Headland Lookout

Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the ocean, this Shelly Headland Lookout provides an ideal spot for photographers because of the wonderful views along the coast. During the whale migration season, it’s also an ideal point to watch them swimming past.

Coastal view looking north back to Manly Manly to North Head Walk
Coastal view looking north back to Manly

Shelly Beach to the Barracks Precinct

After the flat walk from Manly the track becomes rougher and steeper. From here the track climbs uphill to reach the cliff tops. Winding through the coastal vegetation, it is not as busy as the first section because it is a more difficult walk. We loved this section, as the walk through the bush was much more peaceful.

At the top of the cliffs, old fortifications dating from the Second World War and earlier can be seen. The track even goes through one of the old walls built to defend the area.

Barracks Precinct

The Barracks Precinct at North Head is a historically significant site that served as a military base from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. It played a crucial role in the defence of Sydney Harbor and housed various military units over the years.

The Barracks Precinct has well-preserved sandstone buildings, which showcase the architectural style of the time. It includes several barracks, officers’ quarters, mess halls, and maintenance buildings. These structures provide a glimpse into the daily lives of soldiers stationed at North Head.

Today, the Barracks Precinct has been repurposed as a heritage site and is open to the public for exploration. Visitors can wander through the historic buildings, learn about the site’s military history through information boards which are dotted around the area.

In this area and continuing to North Head, the walking tracks are generally well paved and often consists of boardwalks or paved roads. When we visited, the banksias were in flower adding a touch of colour to the walk.

Fortifications

Many of the original fortifications were dismantled and the guns sold for scrap when they were no longer needed. Fortunately, some are still in place so that visitors can see them. Several large gun emplacements are open to the public, but when we visited others were being repaired.

A great way to get a feel for the area’s past is to take the underground tunnels tour. We did this several years ago and highly recommend it. You walk through the tunnels and underground sections of the fortifications as well as getting into areas the general public cannot access.

Memorial Walk

Winding through the coastal vegetation, the Memorial Walk commemorates Australia’s military heritage. Not only are there great sandstone memorials but the path is inlaid with bricks commemorating individuals or military units.

Fairfax Lookout

The end of our walk took us to Fairfax Lookout with its stunning views of Sydney and Sydney Harbour. The site was named after Sir James Fairfax, a prominent Australian businessman and philanthropist.

View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout Manly to North Head Walk
View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout

Other Places to See in North Head

If you have time, Q Station, the old Sydney Quarantine Station is worth a visit. We did a guided tour here some time ago, which took us through the history of the site and most of its buildings. The old quarantine station cemetery is also a great place to see.

Getting Back

After finishing our walk, we decided to catch the bus back to the wharf as it stops right outside. Alternatively, you could walk back via Q Station. We had an excellent tour there a few years ago and highly recommend a visit.

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To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.

North Head Sanctuary and Tunnels

North Head Tunnels

North Head


Operated by Sydney Harbour Trust, North Head is an ex-army heritage listed site. Staffed by volunteers, the Visitor Centre is an ideal point to start your exploration of the area as they can provide you with an overview of what’s available. Our visit on a Sunday corresponded to the day that a guided tour was running for the site and underground tunnels. For a small fee a guide shows groups around while explaining the importance of each area. Importantly this is the only way to gain access to the tunnels which form a major part of the site.

Getting to North Head

Public Transport

Ferries to Manly run from Circular Quay, taking around 30 minutes for the trip. Alternately, the Manly Fast Ferry takes 20 minutes, but is more expensive. There is a Fast Ferry service to Q Station Wharf, if you want to start here instead of Manly.

From the Manly Ferry Wharf, bus 135 takes 20 minutes to drive to North Head. This bus runs every hour and connects well with the ferry arriving and departing Manly. Located outside the main entrance, bus stops are easy to find.

Walking

Taking 40 minutes, the shortest walk winds through Manly’s streets, past Q Station and onto North Head. A more scenic track runs along the shore, taking you past fantastic clifftop lookouts and historical gun emplacements, before passing Shelly Beach and ending at Manly Beach. At 4.2 km long, the scenic track takes around an hour one way, but has wonderful scenery to enjoy along the way.

Starting at Q Station, a 1.3 km track passes through bush land, passes the Third Quarantine Cemetery before ending at the North Head Sanctuary Visitors’ Centre. This well paved track is an easy 20-minute walk, with great views over Sydney Harbour.

Driving

Located outside the Visitor Centre is a pay for use car park, which makes driving yourself a convenient option

North Fort Tour


Starting with a short film on Sydney’s history of fortifications which was informative and gave us an insight into their original appearance.

Memorial Walk


The walking tour started with the Memorial Walk which is a paved pathway winding through Australian bush land. Many of the paving stones have been inscribed with the names of servicemen which gives a personal touch to the area.


Progressing along the path takes you to all the memorials for wars Australia has been involved in. Each of the memorials is made of Sydney sandstone and engraved with an overview of the conflict. The Gallipoli Memorial contains the only non-native species in the area, a cutting from the lone pine.

Fortifications


Continuing to the above ground fortifications we saw the remains of gun emplacements which now consist of concrete structures without any guns. The only remaining gun is a 9.2 inch (23.37 cm) barrel which is on display next to the forts.

Underground Tunnels


The highlight of the tour was the underground tunnels. These consist of the rooms and the tunnels needed to service the guns and protect the military personnel manning the forts. Our guide took us through each room, explaining their function and how each was operating when the fort was working.

In the magazine, dummy shells give an idea of the size of the projectiles used and a rack has them set up to show how it would have looked. Even the old diesel generators are in place, giving an idea of the power needed to run the fort.

Well lit with well maintained walkways, the tunnels were easy to walk through with some good photographic opportunities. Stairs in several areas are steep, but not very long, so should not be a problem for most people. Unfortunately, people with mobility issues will not be able to take the underground tour.

Food and Drinks

At the end of the tour, you can also walk down to the restaurant for food and beverages.

What Did We Think

North Head is a great place to visit, as it covers, Sydney’s history, with fantastic views and bush walks. Being easy to get to either by public transport or car makes it a great day out.

To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.

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Middle Head Sydney Harbour

View to South Head Across the Harbour Middle Head Sydney Harbour

Middle Head

Middle Head on Sydney Harbour houses the remains of Sydney’s original fortifications. Designed to repel an invasion from the sea, these huge concrete structures no longer have their guns, but remain as a reminder of times when Australia thought it was going to be invaded.

The Royal Australian Navy still has a presence in the area with HMAS Penguin still an active naval base. The car park for Middle Head is near the base. There is a fee for parking here and ticket machines are located in the car park.

Several of the old administration buildings are still in use and you walk past them on your way to the gun emplacements. The concrete structures are extensive, and you are free to walk around, through and over them. We explored them for a while and then admired the views over the harbour and towards North Head and South Head with Hornby Lighthouse.

There is a small display of cannon carriages, but this is in need of signage and maintenance to give context to the display. Likewise, the tiger cages constructed in the area require an explanation to make them relevant.

There are no food and drink outlets on the site, but we took our own and had a great view over the harbour while we ate.

Beehive Casements

Situated on Middle Head and maintained by National Parks and Wildlife, this old fortress can only be accessed by a guided tour. Details of the dates and costs can be found on NPWS website.

To get there, you drive through leafy Mossman and pass many lovely houses. Parking in the area is limited, so either arrive early, or walk from one of the larger car parks. Warning signs along the road show that parking in a non designated area will incur a $300 fine.

Beehive Casements Tour

The guide met us at the beehive casements where he gave an overview of their history and significance to Sydney. We then walked down stairs to the interior of the fort. The stairs can be slippery so take care. Once inside, you can see the extent of the excavations needed to build them. The passageways are often wet, because the sandstone they were built with is porous and water constantly sleeps through.

Embrasures facing Sydney Harbour provide a magnificent view and show why the forts were built here as they have a commanding view of any ships attempting to enter the harbour.

The shape of the interior provides the name of the casements, as they look like a conical beehives. The remains of several old cannons lie on the rock floors, but have unfortunately been burnt by vandals in the past. Some other remnants like racks for tools and coat racks still line the walls but have become rotted or rusty, providing some interesting photographic opportunities.

For another perspective of the beehive casements, look for them when taking the Manly ferry. They can be found low down on the waterline of the cliffs. Looking carefully the three gun embrasures are visible.

Beehive Casements From Sydney Harbour
Beehive Casements From Sydney Harbour

A great place to visit and see Sydney’s early history as well as fantastic views over the harbour. For more early fortifications and military history, visit nearby Bradleys Head and the HMAS Sydney (I) mast and Royal Australian Navy memorials.

To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.