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Manly to North Head Walk

Manly to North Head Walk

The walk from Manly to North Head takes you past some beautiful beaches with views over the coast, through coastal scrub and passes old fortifications. Finally ending at the entrance to Sydney Harbour, it has spectacular views of the city.

Getting There

The easiest way to get to Manly is to take the Manly ferry from Circular Quay. If you’re new to Sydney, this is an attraction in itself, because the Sydney Harbour ferries form an important part of the local public transport. During the ferry ride, you get some brilliant views of the Opera House and Harbor Bridge as well as all the other boat traffic on the water.

Start of the Walk

Catching the Manly Ferry from Circular Quay, we arrived at Manly Wharf at 9:30 am. We planned our walk to take us along the shore to Shelly Beach where we would follow a track to the Barracks Precinct. Not only would this give us views over the coast but take us past some old fortifications and gun emplacements.

From the Manly wharf, we walked down The Corso, which is a pedestrian mall leading to the beach.

Manly Beach

One of the most popular Sydney beaches, Manly Beach is a great place for a swim or relaxing on the sand. We bought a coffee at a kiosk near the south end of the beach before starting the walk.

Manly Beach
Manly Beach

Manly to Shelly Beach

Starting at the south end of Manly Beach, the path follows the coastline, which is rocky until you reach Shelly Beach. There are plenty of places with places to look up and down the coast and back to Manly, giving you some amazing views.

Along the way look out for small metal sculptures of local wildlife. These have been placed on the rocks next to the path.

About halfway to Shelly Beach, Fairy Bower Pool is a protected ocean pool where you can swim. The pool is also decorated with a sculpture of two fairies.

Shelly Beach

Shelly Beach is a secluded and serene crescent-shaped beach surrounded by nice shady trees. As well as a grassed area to relax on it has a kiosk where you can buy refreshments before continuing the walk.

From Shelly Beach, the track goes uphill to head along the cliffs to the south.

Shelly Beach Manly Sydney Australia
Shelly Beach

Shelly Headland Lookout

Perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the ocean, this Shelly Headland Lookout provides an ideal spot for photographers because of the wonderful views along the coast. During the whale migration season, it’s also an ideal point to watch them swimming past.

Coastal view looking north back to Manly Manly to North Head Walk
Coastal view looking north back to Manly

Shelly Beach to the Barracks Precinct

After the flat walk from Manly the track becomes rougher and steeper. From here the track climbs uphill to reach the cliff tops. Winding through the coastal vegetation, it is not as busy as the first section because it is a more difficult walk. We loved this section, as the walk through the bush was much more peaceful.

At the top of the cliffs, old fortifications dating from the Second World War and earlier can be seen. The track even goes through one of the old walls built to defend the area.

Barracks Precinct

The Barracks Precinct at North Head is a historically significant site that served as a military base from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century. It played a crucial role in the defence of Sydney Harbor and housed various military units over the years.

The Barracks Precinct has well-preserved sandstone buildings, which showcase the architectural style of the time. It includes several barracks, officers’ quarters, mess halls, and maintenance buildings. These structures provide a glimpse into the daily lives of soldiers stationed at North Head.

Today, the Barracks Precinct has been repurposed as a heritage site and is open to the public for exploration. Visitors can wander through the historic buildings, learn about the site’s military history through information boards which are dotted around the area.

In this area and continuing to North Head, the walking tracks are generally well paved and often consists of boardwalks or paved roads. When we visited, the banksias were in flower adding a touch of colour to the walk.

Fortifications

Many of the original fortifications were dismantled and the guns sold for scrap when they were no longer needed. Fortunately, some are still in place so that visitors can see them. Several large gun emplacements are open to the public, but when we visited others were being repaired.

A great way to get a feel for the area’s past is to take the underground tunnels tour. We did this several years ago and highly recommend it. You walk through the tunnels and underground sections of the fortifications as well as getting into areas the general public cannot access.

Memorial Walk

Winding through the coastal vegetation, the Memorial Walk commemorates Australia’s military heritage. Not only are there great sandstone memorials but the path is inlaid with bricks commemorating individuals or military units.

Fairfax Lookout

The end of our walk took us to Fairfax Lookout with its stunning views of Sydney and Sydney Harbour. The site was named after Sir James Fairfax, a prominent Australian businessman and philanthropist.

View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout Manly to North Head Walk
View of Sydney and the Harbour from Fairfax Lookout

Other Places to See in North Head

If you have time, Q Station, the old Sydney Quarantine Station is worth a visit. We did a guided tour here some time ago, which took us through the history of the site and most of its buildings. The old quarantine station cemetery is also a great place to see.

Getting Back

After finishing our walk, we decided to catch the bus back to the wharf as it stops right outside. Alternatively, you could walk back via Q Station. We had an excellent tour there a few years ago and highly recommend a visit.

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To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.

Bare Island

The external walls of the fortified island

Bare Island

In the 1860s Britain removed its garrison troops from its Australian colonies, which resulted in a rapid examination of the colonies’ defenses. Britain’s war with Russia escalated fears of an invasion (not sure how Russia was going to send an invasion force all the way to Australia). As a result two Imperial Engineers arrived (Scratchley who also designed Fort Scratchley in Newcastle and Jervois). Between them and with the assistance of colonial architects they devised a series of forts to defend the coastline and major centres. One of these was Bare Island.

With excellent views over the entrance to Botany Bay, Bare Island was perfectly placed to guard against an overland attack of Sydney. Manned by around 70 soldiers it served as a fort from it’s completion in 1886 until the early 1900s. With changing technology, the fort became a war veterans’ home until 1942 when the military again took up residence.

Bare Island Fort Today

Unfortunately during the 1930s all but the two largest guns were sold for scrap. The largest guns remain only because they were too heavy to move. In 1967, NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) were given control of the now gazetted historical site. In 1989, the fort opened to the public.

Getting There

We drove to La Perouse and parked in the foreshore parking area. From here we walked over the pedestrian bridge to Bare Island.

The Tour

NPWS conduct guided tours of the island, which can be booked online. Joining a tour at the entrance gate is possible, but only if there is room. Book onlie to avoid disappointment.

Access to the island is via a pedestrian bridge. Your guide will meet you at the far end of the bridge and let you through the gates. From here, the tour takes you through the gun pits, tunnels and rooms of the fort. The guide provides a narration throughout the tour, so you receive the full history of the island.

From the top of the island, you get amazing views of Botany Bay, while being able to appreciate the importance of the fort as it overlooks the bay’s entrance.

What Did We Think of Bare Island?

This was a great tour, full of history and interesting things to see. The tour guide was very knowledgeable, providing us with lots of information on the Island’s history. Especially good was the group size, which was no so large that you missed out on seeing things.

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To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.

Fort Scratchley Newcastle

6-inch Nark VII guns Fort Scratchley

Fort Scratchley Newcastle

No longer used by the military, Fort Scratchley is now a memorial to the servicemen and women who served there. During World War Two, the Japanese submarine I-21 attempted to shell Newcastle and the BHP Steel Works. Fortunately most of the shells missed or failed to explode with no-one hurt and only minor damage caused. Fort Scratcheley returned fire but failed to hit the submarine. In doing so, it became the only Australian fort to fire on an enemy ship.

Regularly fired by volunteers, two of the original guns are still in place. Most of the original buildings and tunnels are intact and can be viewed, with guided tours of the tunnels also available.

Now a heritage site, the fort’s buildings and guns from World War Two are still intact. Still operational, the guns are fired each day by volunteers. The upperworks and buildings are free to walk around, but a tour of the tunnels require a ticket as it is a guided tour.

As well as the fortifications, the views over Newcastle and the nearby beaches are fantastic.

Fort Exterior Displays

On entering the fort, you are free to enter all areas apart from the underground tunnels. As the tunnel tours are timed, we booked one and then went exploring the remainder of the fort. At the top of the hill, the 6-inch guns that fired on the I-21 can be seen and you are able to get close to them.

Older muzzle loading guns have been returned to the fort and re-sited where they used to be. The size of the 80-pound cannon really has to be seen to understand how massive it is.

Display Rooms

Rooms that used to house soldiers now serve as display rooms showing the history of the fort. A full room is dedicated to Sir Peter Scratcheley who the fort is named after. Another room has a model of the I-21 and some of the shells fired that night.

The Tunnels

The highlight of the trip was the tunnel tour which takes you under the fort and into its working areas. The guide was great and full of information about the fort’s past and how it worked. From the magazines that used to store the fort’s ammunition to the gun emplacements it was a comprehensive tour. We were able to get close to most of the guns to get a detailed look.

What Did We Think?

This was a great place to visit, because it’s full of local history and amazingly restored guns and displays. Well worth the visit.

To see what else there is to do in New South Wales, please see some of our other stories.